6532A REV E Norge Washer - Instructions

First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".

Washer was making noise especially when spinning. I took the washer apart to clean it, That is what it really needed. Also adjusted the water level to prevent overflows which caused soap and water to get underneath into the drive belt area as well. During inspection noticed a nick in the drive belt, Although this was not really causing immediate problem wanted to repalce it to prevent problems. Ordered the belt; it came in two days with no special postage. To install, just leaned the washer over on its front on a slight incline. Took old belt off and put new on by turning the big pulley. It is spring tensioned, so no tools. This may be the easiest part repacement I ever did. Took longer to write this paragraph than to repalce the belt.

if you move the agiatater all the way to one side you can acess the star screws from under the hinge then push the agitator to the other side and acess the screw on the other hinge , you dont have to remove the top of the washer, let me say i did not have the serial no and the people at part select were very helpful and pacient when i called and they got me the RIGHT part the firdt time.thanks again for all your help the job came out perfect and saved me a lot of money for a repair man. ASHER

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

I removed four screws to remove a plate to get access to the pump. Then I removed 3 screws to remove the pump. I then put the new pump in place and put the 3 screws back in the pump. Then I put the plate back on and put the 4 screws back in. Then I put the belt on and put the washing machine back in place and connected the water lines and drain line and plugged the washing machine back in and then tested the washing machine to make sure it worked. Job completed.

I took the back off of the washer then took the old timer off when the new timer got here just plug in the wires to the new timer put the back on and it was like a new washer.
It saved me alot of money I was on my way out to get a new washer when I found your site on my computer

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the washer. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.