LA284 Maytag Washer - Instructions

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

My wife got the washer for free but the elbow where the water is released got snapped off when it was removed from its previous location. I looked up the schematics online, ordered the part, and it came a day and a half later. The installation video on the PartSelect.com website was perfect. I followed it step-by-step and installed the part in just a few minutes. The hardest part was hooking up the washer without leaks. Everything went great and I will definitely use the service again when needed. Best part? My wife is happy.

Turn water off, removed water hoses. removed plug from elec. outlet.Then remove water inlet valve.very simple.

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

First I removed the 4 screws holding the old elbow in place. Then I removed the screw holding the cover over the upper access hole on the below the syphon break elbow. I reached up through the access hole and removed the old elbow from the inside. I slid the new elbow up through the hole, aligned it with the housing plate and then screwed the screws back in to hold it in place. I had to cut about 3" off my old drain hose, because the outside diameter of the old syphon break elbow was about 1/16" larger and had stretched the end of the hose too much to fit tightly on the new elbow. I then attached the drain hose to the new elbow and tightened the hose clamp and reinserted the hose into the drain and pushed the washer back into place. (I used the old hose clamp rather than the one included with the new elbow because it still worked fine and looked sturdier than the enclosed one.)

You will need 2 hose clamps not sold as maytag parts.

Remove front washer panel screws.

Remove bolts holding front of top to side panels

Remove hose clamp from front hose to injector sleeve.

Twist fill hose ccw 90 degrees at tub fitting to remove.

Clean corrosion at tub attachment point wuth wire brush.

Paint bare metal to seal. Allow to thoroughly dry.

Remove injector sleeve and injector hose.

Trim new injector hose to match length of removed hose (I cut off abt 4 inches)

Install injector hose and plastic sleeve. Ensure clocking is correct on hose.

Install gasket on fill hose fitting.

Insert fitting into tub. Rotate 90 deg CW to latch.

Install gear clamps loosely on fill tube.

Attach fill tube to fill fitting and injector sleeve.

Slide clamps onto tube ends ensuring clamp clocking provides access and clears tub top..

Test tub fill to ensure injector works without leaks

Did repair as instructed by video, I'm 74 years old if I can do it anybody can!

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

First I unplugged the power cord from the wall. Then I turned off the water supply shut-offs at the wall and removed the hot & cold connections at the rear of the washer. Then I removed the two screws that held the assembly in the rear of the washer. I then pulled the assembly out about 3-inches, marked the new assembly to show the proper color of wire for each lug and disconnected the four wires at the lugs. I disconnected the rubber fill hose from the assembly and removed the assembly. Next, I installed the new assembly in the reverse order. It worked fine without any leaks & saved me from buying a new washer. My old washer now gets my clothes cleaner than it has for years - much quieter and quicker too.

Remove front panel of machine, 2 screws at
bottom. Remove 2 bolts at top front with nut
driver and whole top can be lifted to expose
all parts. Remove injector hose clamps and
clamp new hoses in place. I replaced both
injejctor hoses while open although only one
had small hole in it. This is the only repair
done on this coin-op machine in 20 years. At
this time I did replace both drive belts but they
could have run for more years, no cracks or
breaks in belts. This machine is in a 12 unit
apartment building. We have two on them,
same age. We purchased both coin ops new
in 1987.

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.