KA108 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Frist take off front of the washer, removed old belts and then put on the new. very easy.

I viewed and followed the PartSelect Instruction Video. My only problem was reattaching the door after the hinges fell off.Everything fell into place as the video indicated. After I regrouped I was able to put the hinges back and then I was able to reattach the side panel very easily as the vedio indicated. Thanks for everything.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

After looking up the problem on the PartSelect website, which indicated the problem could be with the tumbler (drum) belt, I watched the instructional video, which was very helpful, as the dryer in the video was exactly the same as mine. After removing the power cord from the wall and separating the exhaust vent pipes from the dryer, I followed the instructions for removing the front panel, the front bulkhead, the drum and the old belt, which was worn and somewhat stretched. I then followed the instructions for installing the new belt, but I found it was easier for me to remove the back access panel in order to complete the installation of the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley wheels as I wanted to see what I was doing as opposed to just "feeling" the belt to ensure a proper installation (e.g., new belt not twisted). Once I removed the drum, and before I put in the new belt, I also took the opportunity to use my shop vacuum (and you really need a shop vac for its power)to remove 25 years of rubber dust from the old belt, house dust, and packed lint from inside the exhaust fan, cabinet, and the vent pipes (and a dead field mouse that had crawled into the dryer through the outside vent pipe and had gotten trapped in the exhaust fan). I also examined the heater tubes to insure no lint was inside that and spun the fan blades by hand to make sure the motor shaft was not worn. Once I was satisfied that the installation of the belt was done properly, I put the drum back on, reinstalled the front bulkhead (checking to make sure the felt gaskets were in place, as recommended in the video) and reattached the front panel. I also took the opportunity to touch up the accumulated minor nicks and scratches ion the cabinet with refrigerator enamel. Now that the new belt is on, the dryer no longer vibrates, and with the dust, lint and mouse removed, dryer is operating much more efficiently. Remember to re-balance the dryer using a carpenter's level to minimize any latent vibration. Note that the actual removal and replacement of the belt took me about 30 minutes, and the rest of the cleaning, reattaching of the vent pipes, and balancing, etc. took about two hours.

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

My 13yr old son and I fixed the washer in about 5 minutes. It was very simple and easy to repair considering I had never done it before.

The repair was simple, and followed the instructions exactly. Removed three screws, one small hose clamp, and two electrical connectors. Replaced and reassembled. Worked like a champ!

Removed old part, installed new part. tested machine. worked fine.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

The hot water side would fill quickly but the cold water filled very slowly. The seloniods and the valve is built all into one unit. I ordered and replace the part in no time at all. Now both hot and cold water fill quickly.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

put on the new belt. it also smelled like smoke when we first ran. upon further inspection, saw that the drum was not turning easily. felt around the top inside edge of the drum, found the real problem- there was a sock jammed on the top edge between the drum and rim. removing the sock was easy, and then everything worked great!