KA108 Maytag Washer - Instructions

1st We pulled the washing machine from the wall and unplugged it. 2nd We tilted the maching back against the wall so that we could see all the pullies. 3rd. We removed the two screws that afix the front panel on the lower part of the washing machine and removed the panel. 4th We removed both belts and put new belts on. 5th We put all parts back in place and plugged maching back in, slide it back in place. 6th It worked like a charm and I proceeded to wash 3 loads of laundry that evening. The only tool we needed was the phillips head screw drive to take off the front panel. It took us 5 minutes to fix the machine.

Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

Of couse, turn off water to machine. Remove hoses. Then had to open unit - easiest by popping spring in with flat blade in seam under lid. Screws holding valve are on back of unit at hose inlet, so simply unscrew to remove failed valve. Clamp holding hose onto valve is crimped with pliers to remove. I suggest spending the 50 cents a hardware store for new clamp, as my reattachment of existing clamp onto new value leaked. There are four electrical connectors, so remember order in which you removed them and return to same on new unit.
Reassemble in reverse (hoses, water on) and your all set.
Pretty easy: I figure it would be about $200 for service guy and part. My cost: $30 and 30 minutes

I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame.
Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine.
These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.