MAV7000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed old agitator, and installed new one. Very easy.

I opened up the control panel on the back by removing the 4 screws and then used the print that was inside to check where the power went from the power cord. I checked the power at diferent places and determined that I did not have power coming from the lid switch with the door up or down. You could here the switch click when you opened and closed the door but aperantly it was not working. After going on your web site and looking at the other posts I realixed that there was a fuse link in the switch that was probably blown. I ordered the switch and it was a simple matter to replace when it arrived. The washer works great once more.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

I did a continuity check on the lid switch assembly since it was a) the easist to get to, and b) my wife's descreiption of how rthe washer stopped made me think it had something to do with the lid switch.
I found that all of the contacts were open regardless of the position of the switch, and I also discovered that there was a fuse inside the swithch. I decided to order a replacement part based on the presence of the fuse.
Upon repacling the fuse (a snap in affair), the washer was working again... my wife was impressed and I was happy!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

The replacement was very easy, just one bolt and RR was a snap. However, the first part that came was defective and I called the 800 number, spoke to the rep and the part came the next day. Excellent customer service, and would do business again

I removed three small bolts on the back of top panel unpluged electric plug on lid switch popped out old switch popped in new plugged in switch put top back on with the three small bolts. The wife was back in business. Easy as 1 2 3

I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used
a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed
the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!

Took off the top rear off the washer, Removed the top control section,disconnected the wire harness, snaped out the old switch and installed the new one, connected the wire harness, put everything back together, and it was working again!

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

Diconnected water lines, layed washer on its side, spun pulleys and pulled belt off at the same time, put the belt on in the same way. VERY simple

Switch material hardened due to old age & broke easily when force fitted. Ordered parts online & in two business day it arrived.

First open the lid & removed the side latch with screw driver carefully. Checked the length of the new plunger with the old one with respect to length & compare the stroke. Slide fit the switch & rectified the play in the plunger pusher with super glue.