MAV7501EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Shut-off water + power.With the putty knive; slide it under the front of the top to push back on the spring clips.The top will lift easily and it is hinged.The Water inlet unit in the back has a plastic cover.Remove carefully.One screw holds the unit in place. Remove and the the unit will slide out to the left. It's now easy to disconnect the hoses from the unit. The wiring to the coils is color coded,take note for proper reconnecting. Remove stakon connectors from the valve coils. Careful, do not pull on the wire but wiggle it of the coil connection.Pay attention to the routing of the wire harness. Also the kit comes with a clear plastic splash shield. make sure the new goes in the right place.Now the old water inlet valve can be removed from the metal bracket.One srew.Assembly goes in reverse

After taking the motor off (it looked loose to me!) and stripping out the bolts on it, then finding that the bolts holding the motor were permanently affixed to the motor (and they were an odd size not available at the hardware store), I drilled the bolts out and put in new ones (on the motor) and re-affixed the same. I still had a problem. I then went online and found that most people had problems with the water pump. I looked at the pulley on the water pump and found that the inner shims had slipped out on a permanent part (and could not be put back in with the basic tools I had on hand). I ordered the pump online, and replaced the same. Took about 30 minutes after I found the real problem and got the parts in. My pump had a permanent metal disc on the bottom which did not come with the new pump, but the new pump fit without it. Machine works fine now.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!

Phil job can be done by a baby. Hardest part of the job is to open the top of the washing machine. I was an h. V,a. C. Tect for 46 years.

Repair was easy...The hardest part was manhandling the machine where I could work on it. I loosened the retaining bolts around the back, sprung the retaining clips, and slowly pried the top off the front of the washer to finally get the entire top off. After that, it was a matter of reverse engineering it and removing the bad part without breaking anything else! After about 20 minutes, I had removed the valve assembly, and the new one went on much faster. It took about half the time to put it all back together, and it worked beautifully! The best part was saving the exhorbitant amount of money that a service company would have charged me to install the part, while probably breaking something else in the process! My wife was so happy...

I removed the old pump put the new one in its place. In twenty minutes i was ready to was clothes. It was so quite i thought something was wrong. I received the part in three days the timing was great.

Brought unit out to garage so I would have room to work on it. Popped the top off, removed two screws to remove the front panel, removed back panel also, since there was no way I was going to the trouble of dis-assembly to get to the snubber without changing those 6 springs also - and you HAVE to remove the back cover to access all 6 springs.Removed belt and level and drain hoses- tub came right out. Loosened those 6 screws without removing them and pulled old snubber out- very straight-forward. Spent 10 minutes just comparing the old and new snubbers- I saw that there's a "ridge" around the inside of the new part that is gone on the old snubber. Sprinkled some corn starch at base of unit where the new snubber will fit (Great Idea someone had!) After everything was re-assmbled, I noticed the tub was now nice and tight when I grabbed it to move it. Before, it took no effort AT ALL to move it all around. Did a test load with some laundry the wife had stacked on the drier. Imagine my disappointment when I heard loud knocking inside when it started to agitate, but not while it spun!
Got all my tools back out and took the wet laundry out to take it all apart again- found the wife's heavy glass vase had been hidden in one of the towels. Re-tested- everything works GREAT!So far I've changed the drum seal (hardest) and the waterpump (easiest)- thi springs and snubber was alsmost as easy as the pump.
Above average shipping from Parts Select also- very helpful and efficient people on the phones.

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

Removing and installing the pump is theoretically easy, as everyone on this site has said so far. Just remove three hex-shaped screws, loosen drive belt and remove pump, then install new one using the same steps in reverse order. The trick is getting the screws off and on--they do not have slots for a screwdriver and there is not room around them for a socket wrench or pliers. I probable spent over an hour just on removing/replacing these screws and have many bruises to show for it. I ended up attaching a vice grips on the tips of the screws underneath the washing machine and screwing them out that way. And replacing the drive belt was horrifically difficult--that's where the other hour went. The devil was definitely in the details! If anyone had told me what I would have to go through to make this repair, I would have called a repairman. And I am an extremely handy person--I do stuff like repairs all the time, so it is unusual for me to say this. The good news is that the new pump works and the washer is back in commission.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

i removed 3 screws from back of washer , took off 2 hose clamps , then i took 4 screws out of waterpump, removed belt . put new pump on very easy. thanks part was perfect, fixed problem

I changed the piece easily

I watched the installation video. It was very helpful to see it done before doing the repair. I followed the video to take the old springs out and installed the new ones. Remember to check the snubbed ring and replace it too. The new springs and sunnier ring solved the banging and moving during the spin cycle. Now the washer is like new and the repair was less then $100. Thanks parts select, the help was greatly appreciated.