MVWC500VW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

After removing the 2 phillips screws at the base of the control panel, I flipped the panel toward the back. Using a screwdriver, I popped off the spring clips, releasing the cabinet. I removed the 1/4" hex head screw on the spring mount and removed the old spring and replaced with the new. I repeated this with the other 2 springs. The spring bracket in the rear also holds the tub balancing spring. It is easily replaced while replacing the suspension spring.
If this didn't fix the problem, we were going shopping for a new washer. After this repair, it operates like new!

Pulled up on fabric softener dispenser and removed it. Had to use pliers to remove cap and seal to get access to the bolt holding the agitator in.

Realized my socket extension wasn’t long enough so went to Lowe’s and bought another.

Was unable to hold the bottom of the agitator to keep it still and get enough leverage to remove the bolt. I poured hot water over it and then climbed into the washer and used my foot to hold the vanes still while I removed the bolt. Once I got the agitator out, the rest was a breeze. Separated the top of the agitator from the bottom by placing it on the floor, using my feet to hold it down and pulling up to remove the top part of the agitator.
Turned the top of the agitator upside down and removed the cam and feed dogs. Assembled the new one and held the agitator top horizontally while placing the new part back in.
Reassembled the top and bottom of the agitator and put it back into the washer. Tightened the bolt, replaced the cap with its seal and pressed the fabric softener dispenser back into place.

Followed the videos on the website. But had to order parts twice because it wasn't the springs it was the plastic bushings the tub sits on that caused the wobble. No big deal though. All told it was still far less expansive than a new machine.

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

the first order was ordered wrong for me and the part was to big so I had to send it back and order another. The second dispenser was the right one and went on well to the machine. Just had to put it on the machine by hand.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate.
I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 metal holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.

Using the guidance listed on your website for part #PS3408149, Water Level Pressure Switch, I removed two screws on each side of the rear Control Panel, removed the dial from the front, lifted the panel on the right side from rear, removed the hose and the electrical plug, twisted off the broken part and installed the new one in absolute reverse! Reassembled panel, plugged in unit to electric and performed function check to great satisfaction! (by doing one med load and one super load over next 2 hours)

Ordered part PS3408149 from partselect.com. Lifted Washer control panel with putty knife. Removed hinges (regular screwdriver, used as a crowbar rather than screwdriver) holding control panel to washer body. Moved washer body panel out of the way, and reviewed level sensor/level selector switch. Take handle off front of selector switch. Twist selector switch off from inside (90 degree turn till square inset lines up withsquare hole, then it will come out). Insert new selector switch. Remove old tubing. Fish new tubing through where old tubing was. Cut off extra tubing, then push tubing onto selector switch and tub basin (where old tubing was). Put washer back together. Done. Worked perfectly.