MHWZ600WR01 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the old pump and installed the new one. Most difficulty came from the fact that the dryer is on top of the washer and the washer is inside a plastic pan that has a 2 inch lip which made it difficult to remover the front panel.

unhooked two water lines & electrical plugin unbolted old pump and installed new pump. took about 15 minutes.

Unhooked two hose clamps took two screws off put new aprt on hooked back up works great

Unplug machine from electrical outlet.
All screws can be removed with a 1/4" socket, either with a socket wrench or nut driver.
Top panel - remove three screws on back, slide panel back an inch or so, and lift off.
The control panel must be carefully pulled off by using a screwdriver to pry it away, and then placed on top of machine. Be careful not to disconnect or damage any attached wires.
Pull out the detergent dispense drawer, press the retainer on the left rear of dispenser drawer, and pull it out and set it aside. One small torx screw must removed from the dispenser housing.
Bottom front panel - remove three screws to take it off. This exposes the screws on the front panel.
The front panel of machine must be removed as well.
This is the most tedious part of the job, as the door seal must be disconnected from the panel. Remove the wire and spring retainer around the door that holds seal in place. The spring portion of the retainer is on the bottom of the opening. Pry it off with a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the rubber seal. Do not remove it, simply push it into the washer opening.
Remove the screws from the front panel - two on top, and two bottom. It has some wires on the right side, and to avoid damaging them, support the panel with a stool and prop it up against the machine.
You can now access the hose on the rear bottom of the dispenser. Using a pliers, squeeze the retainer and pull the hose off the dispense. The other end is pressed into the tub - simply pull it out. I recommend cleaning the edges of hole to assure a good seal when installing the replacement.
To install the replacement hose, press it into the tub, making sure to get the channel in the hose properly inserted in order to make a solid seal. Attach the other end to the dispenser with the retainer.
Reassemble by reversing the order described above.

removed bottom panel and took out pump and replaced it with new one

My husband removed the bottom panel of the washer and removed the old pump with two screws, then removed the water hose coming into the pump and unplugged the electrical push in type plug from the side of the pump. Simple reversed the process to instal the new one and replaced the front panel. Simple really...far more so than calling a repair man.

My husband and son removed the old pump and replaced it with the new pump assembly. The whole process took about 30 minutes max.

The washing machine would only run on the hot water cycle. When trying to use the warm or cold setting, the water would dribble into the drum and result in an LF error code(long fill). I watched a brief video on replacing the water inlet valve which made it really easy to repair. I first turned off the water, disconnected the hoses from the machine, and opened the top to access the valves. I then disconnected the wires from the valve, removed the water tubes, swapped out the valves and put everything back together. I am not experienced in repair but this was a very easy fix! We decided to replace the single hot water valve and the dual cold water valve since it's an older machine and it works like new again!

Remove two star screws. Remove broken striker. Installed new striker. Took two mins.

I followed the instructions in the video (available on the site) and had no problem whatsoever to replace the boot. This video is so detailed that it is difficult to go wrong.
Only caution I would make is that this may prove to be a bit too much if the person has never ever used tools before.

Unplug, remove top and bottom panels using nut driver.
The control panel also must be removed; mine just snapped loose, providing access to the top hex-head screws securing the front panel/door assembly. The gasket/bellows is secured to the front panel and tub with circular clamps. The front panel clamp, a wire loop held tight with a spring, must be removed prior to taking off the front panel/door. I used a wide blade flat head screwdriver to pry it off. The door assembly is rather heavy and awkward as the door swings randomly once removed. It may be helpful to secure it to the frame with duct tape prior to removal. Six screws, three top and three bottom, secure the panel. Once removed, there is access to the clamp securing the back of the bellows to the tub. This one is a larger loop with a screw type tensioner. After removing it, the old gasket can be pulled out.
These gaskets have drainage holes at the bottom which must be in line with the drain hole on the tub. Clean the grooved edge where the gasket sits. It fits inside a channel on the bellows. It’s a snug fit and it helps to lubricate the bellow’s channel with liquid soap. Once it is in place, make sure it’s seated properly-there’s a groove that accepts the clamp-and the drainage holes are positioned over the drain at the tub’s bottom. Replace the clamp in its channel and tighten it with a nut driver or screwdriver.
Replace the front panel/door. Next, clean the channel on the front panel and work the front of the bellows into it’s place on the panel. The sprung front clamp can be difficult.
There are spreader tools made for the job, but I just used two needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring. After the new bellows is installed, reassemble the cabinet. I left the bottom panel off until I ran a test cycle to check for leaks.

My washer is part of a washer/dryer stack and i did not remove the dryer for the repair. I followed a YouTube video that shows the basics of how to do this repair:
1. Remove the spring-compressed outer band. Did this with needle nose pliers. Then removed the bellows from the outside of the frame--really easy.
2. Remove the inner band. Used a stubby philips head screwdriver while pushing the tub inward to get more room.It was awkward, but patience is key. Once that was loose i removed the inner ring then the bellows from the tub.
Total time for removal was maybe 30 min

For the install i took my time and started at the bottom of the tub and pressed the new bellows in the groove making sure it was in properly. Then the ring went on and again, take the time to make sure it's in the groove. Then tighten.
Lastly attache the bellows the the frame of the machine making sure to take your time to properly seat it in the groove.
The most challenging part was getting the outer ring back on. expanding the spring is a challenge. I used just needle-nose pliers to expand it while trying to keep it from slipping off. I believe there is a tool to expand the ring and it's probably worth buying it to make this step easier.
Over all the install took maybe 30-40 min.
Happy i got it fixed. Good luck!

Easy fix,
I remove the front lower panel and the shocks where right in front of you , with a little twist with an adjustable wrench the cam right off . I removed and the replaced and it the same when you remove the back panel.
P.S when installing the shocks start by connecting to the bottom and then connect to the drum it will make it lot easier.
Good luck on your repair

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

replaced the hot water valve