MVWX600BW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Followed instructions.

Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Went with the instructions

My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.

Turn off the water. Disconnect both hoses. Remove the plug from the outlet. Remove five screws with a nut driver from the back panel. Remove the back panel. Remove two screws from the cold water valve. Pulled out the old valve. Install new valve with the two screws. Reinstall back panel with the five screws. Reset codes to the washer. Tested out washer. Works fine.

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

Took off back, popped off top, replace valve

First problem I found, feed hose has cone screen . this was half clogged with black debris ,from deteriorating feed water hose ,(replace hose).old valve did not have internal filter inside port, but new one did. When removing old valve. lift up out of feed ports. Look for black rubber debris, from tube seals floating in box. You can remove particles with Q-tip and a pair of tweezers. After that, I have full flow. Great looking part, Fast delivery. 5 stars.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.