MHWZ600TK02 Maytag Washer - Instructions

My husband removed the bottom panel of the washer and removed the old pump with two screws, then removed the water hose coming into the pump and unplugged the electrical push in type plug from the side of the pump. Simple reversed the process to instal the new one and replaced the front panel. Simple really...far more so than calling a repair man.

My husband and son removed the old pump and replaced it with the new pump assembly. The whole process took about 30 minutes max.

Remove two star screws. Remove broken striker. Installed new striker. Took two mins.

literally took about 8 minutes, 4 of those minutes were spent trying to pull the 2 little parts (that the blue wires plug into) out of the old dispenser motor. recommended a magnetized screwdriver so you dont drop the screws for the washer top on the floor.

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

1. Turn of hot and cold water valves. Disconnect the hot and cold water hoses from the unit back panel
2. Use a nut driver to unscrew the top screws from the unit back panel
3. Remove the top cover
4. The valve is located at the top left corner
5. Use a torx driver to unscrew the screw off the valve unit
6. Unclamp and remove the hose from the valve unit
7. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve unit
8. Remove the faulty valve unit
9. Connect the electrical plugs to the new valve unit
10. Insert the hose and clamp into the new valve unit
11. Place the new valve unit to the top left corner of the washer and secure it with the torx screw
12. Re-cover the top cover and secure it with screws
13. Reconnect the hot and cold water hoses
14. Re-open the hot and cold water valves.
15. Turn on washer and verify there is no leak

open the door of washer lined up baffle pushed down on baffle slid into place in 1 minute

I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.

1/4 inch nutdriver, took the top and the front panel of and renew all rubber parts / hoses. It looks less than 1 hours. All parts like factory quality, everything fits perfect.

I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.

As video instructed

Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.