MHWE900VW00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Take off top of washer and the flowmeter is in the back lefthand corner on the top of the washer. Replaced the water level switch on the top righthand of the machine also. Got about 150. 00 Total invested w/service call from local tech. F-20 has not came back yet. I hoped it fixed it washer is only 3 yrs. Old. -Gd

Starting getting these errors...but we had also been washing about 300 towels a week from our gym for about 3 months. I contacted an ex-sears repairman friend of ours for advise. He first recommended checking the pump filter basket. It was easy to get to by taking off the front panel. It did have about three hand wipes and other debris in it. Removing these items did cause the errors to occur less often, but they still did continue. We had our repair friend come over and go through the diagnostics checks as per the instruction sheet that was on the inside of the washer. It came down to being the pressure sensor. After replacing the sensor, the washer has worked flawlessly.

Removed 3 screws from back of top panel, slid top off, twisted APS sensor 90 degrees, popped out of mount, removed hose and elect. connector, replaced with new APS sensor and reinstalled. Ran diag test, passed with no issues.

just changed out the pump. easy

removed door from washer, set flat on table and just loosen up the screws all around, removed old hinge and replaced with new hinge, very easy. back to washing clothes.

Peace of cake! 3 screws at top of washer to gain access.
Unplug sensor, but first have to rotate sensor 90 degrees to release from bracket. unplug black tiny hose and plug wire from sensor. Install new in reverse order.
works great and saved a lot of cash doing it myself.
Grateful for the info for the tips from other's with same problem!
Mark from Vermont
Happy Camper:)))))))))

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remove door from washer and lay flat on a piece of cardboard remove 4 screws from door hinge and take out just enough screws both sides of hinge to remove hinge from pocket of door,careful not to put to much stress on glass and gasket when removing old hinge and replacing.

very simple

I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.

Replace bellow with help from Youtube video.

As video instructed

First,we took apart the front of the washer and then we removed the old bellow and put the new one on.After we put back up the front of the washer and open the door to put the clamp on then after we unlocked it.After it was working good as new.

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.