MHWE550WR00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

Found it impossible to get the bellow off the machine. Removed the front spring. Even tried to but off the bellow. No luck. Called repairman. He had to take off the front panel, door panel, and the top of the machine before he could remove the back spring/clamps.

Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.

We hired a local repairman and he even had trouble . I would not suggest anyone trying this installation on their own. It took the repair guy an hour to do and he struggled. Not an eary installation

First unplug the washer and take the back cover off. Loosen the screw on the motor and the big nut on the belt wheel. Take the old belt off and put the new belt on around the motor but slip the motor back in place with the screw slightly in place but do not tighten it yet. Place the belt around the motor and the wheel but this is hard because you need some one with some strength so the is where my dear boyfriend came in handy. He used his strength to stretch the belt and put it back on the machine so I could put the big nut back on. But if you break a wire you have to know a little electrical to put back the wires back in place with small connectors. I do know electrical also. My machine is working better like new. Carol Rozier

Very easy. Revived back of washer. Used a screwdriver to pull belt over pulley. Very easy

I watched video first and it help me a lot to do the repair myself of my washer machine and i save about $ 1,500 dollar. Thanks

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

I just put the divider in the dispencer

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$

I unplugged the power and tilted the washer back and removed the kick panel. I then unscrewed the pump trap access and set aside. I used the shop vac to remove the remaing water from the washer to the drain pump, unplugged power to the pump, removed the discharge hose and suction hose. After everything was removed, I removed the pump. Everything I read said to take the pump loose before removing everything, it just worked better for me to take everything loose with the pump secure. Going back together I mounted the new pump, plugged it back in (I did not have to remove anything from the plug to use it on the new pump as the insert indicated), installed the discharge hose and the suction hose. I found it easier to rotate the clamp a bit on the sucttion hose to allow me to use my right hand to depress the clamp to get it back in place. Replaced the kick panel, lowered the washer back in place, plugged it in and ran it through a cycle, worked great.