MHWE550WR00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Followed video, slowly. Was easier then I expected. Everything fit perfectly.

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

Very easy. Revived back of washer. Used a screwdriver to pull belt over pulley. Very easy

I watched video first and it help me a lot to do the repair myself of my washer machine and i save about $ 1,500 dollar. Thanks

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

I just put the divider in the dispencer

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$

I unplugged the power and tilted the washer back and removed the kick panel. I then unscrewed the pump trap access and set aside. I used the shop vac to remove the remaing water from the washer to the drain pump, unplugged power to the pump, removed the discharge hose and suction hose. After everything was removed, I removed the pump. Everything I read said to take the pump loose before removing everything, it just worked better for me to take everything loose with the pump secure. Going back together I mounted the new pump, plugged it back in (I did not have to remove anything from the plug to use it on the new pump as the insert indicated), installed the discharge hose and the suction hose. I found it easier to rotate the clamp a bit on the sucttion hose to allow me to use my right hand to depress the clamp to get it back in place. Replaced the kick panel, lowered the washer back in place, plugged it in and ran it through a cycle, worked great.

The new baffle simply slid into slots in the drum, took a few minutes to get the position correct but then it slipped right in.