MHWE251YL00 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Couldn’t see exactly where it was coming from. Checked the bellow and it looked ok. Took this hose off and it was kinda chewed up a bit where it connects to the tub. Not bad but enough to make it leak. Ordered the new one. Took forever to get here thru fed ex smart post. Repair takes longer to get the panels off than it does to put new hose on. Hope this helps someone out there.

replaced the hot water valve

Unplug, remove top and bottom panels using nut driver.
The control panel also must be removed; mine just snapped loose, providing access to the top hex-head screws securing the front panel/door assembly. The gasket/bellows is secured to the front panel and tub with circular clamps. The front panel clamp, a wire loop held tight with a spring, must be removed prior to taking off the front panel/door. I used a wide blade flat head screwdriver to pry it off. The door assembly is rather heavy and awkward as the door swings randomly once removed. It may be helpful to secure it to the frame with duct tape prior to removal. Six screws, three top and three bottom, secure the panel. Once removed, there is access to the clamp securing the back of the bellows to the tub. This one is a larger loop with a screw type tensioner. After removing it, the old gasket can be pulled out.
These gaskets have drainage holes at the bottom which must be in line with the drain hole on the tub. Clean the grooved edge where the gasket sits. It fits inside a channel on the bellows. It’s a snug fit and it helps to lubricate the bellow’s channel with liquid soap. Once it is in place, make sure it’s seated properly-there’s a groove that accepts the clamp-and the drainage holes are positioned over the drain at the tub’s bottom. Replace the clamp in its channel and tighten it with a nut driver or screwdriver.
Replace the front panel/door. Next, clean the channel on the front panel and work the front of the bellows into it’s place on the panel. The sprung front clamp can be difficult.
There are spreader tools made for the job, but I just used two needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring. After the new bellows is installed, reassemble the cabinet. I left the bottom panel off until I ran a test cycle to check for leaks.

I had to cut new slots in the metal base of the machine cabinet to accommodate the different configuration for the rubber boot assembly. Thankfully the new pump works like a charm.

just changed out the pump. easy

open the door of washer lined up baffle pushed down on baffle slid into place in 1 minute

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

As video instructed

Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.

Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.

Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.

First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.

There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.

After I received the part I removed the top panel of the washer. I then located the position of the old part. I proceeded to remove electrical connector and installed the new one which required no tools. Just to clear the water line, I blew into to it just to sure line is clear then reattached. That easy. Thanks Part Select.

Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.