MHWE500VW11 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

Removed screws around door couple around hinge

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

the tabs were to big on the replacement and the customer representitive said he was unable to help me.

discouraged

I will never buy parts from this site again

Myself...easy

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

Lineup slots and snap in place. So easy even a caveman can do it.

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

New baffles would not fit. PartSelect very helpful to get refund.

New baffles should just slide in but did not. Measuring slots and
connection points on new baffles appear to be a difference preventing
connection.

Had difficulty getting the door off the washer because I didn't realize there were two hooks in addition to the two screws that held the door to the washer. I reviewed the repair video several times through out the repair. Probably unscrewed more than I needed. Got the new hinge installed on the door. The problem was I couldn't hold the door at the right angle to get the hooks inserted. The washer is near the wall so I couldn't open it all the way and bending over at an odd angle didn't help. At nearly 80 I don't have the strength I used to!! After trying and with the door falling on my arm I gave up and called a friend. We did have difficulty getting the hooks inserted correctly. I held the door and she got the hooks in. On the good side, the hinge part fit like it should!!

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.