MHWE300VW11 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Of course the machine was not plugged in & water valves where off. I took water hoses off. Then i took 3 screws off the back of lid & slid lid back & lifted it off. I then unplugged two wires going to valve. I then took water hose going to valve off. Last there is one bolt holding valve to machine & in the mechanic industry we call this bolt a star head, so it was a good thing I had this tool. So if you do this repair you will have to get this tool. This job is easy to do & Part Select was 100% on my order & shipping! I will order again when something brakes again !!! Thank's

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

pulled the front and top of the machine off, pulled off the old bellow, ordered the new bellow, and put the new bellow on. we looked on youtube.com for a video on repairing the machine.

Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

I just put the divider in the dispencer

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

Disconected washer, disconected water lines, Removed top cover. Removed screw holding valve, disconnected 2 connectors for valve put everything back together

I watched video first and it help me a lot to do the repair myself of my washer machine and i save about $ 1,500 dollar. Thanks

It was a little difficult to put the new Bellow in place on the tub, due to the fact you have to basically push the outside of the Bellow all the way into the tub so you can install the tub clamp. The other difficult part of the task was tightening up the clamp it's self. There really isn't a lot of room to move your hand around in the space you are given to work. But after a few hand cramps and a few things said, that are not needing repeated, I was able to get the clamp tight. Once you have the clamp on the tub, it's basically pretty simple to slide everything else into place. The wire/spring clamp that is used to attach the Bellow to the front of the washer is fairly simple to put into place with a little patience. All in all it was a cheep and easy repair for a due-it-your self repair.

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.