MHWE300VW10 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

I removed the old pump and replaced it with the new one. I am the happiest person on earth right now to have my washing machine working at its best again. Thank you so much.

Replaced water pump

took front panel off. Pump is right there easy to work on. Used pliers to take 2 hose clamps off. Used star screw driver to take 2 screws off of pump and removed old pump. The Assemblely goes the same way but the drain hose coming off the tube is not very easy to get back on. Hose is flimsey and the stem, on the end of the drain pump isnt long enough to keep hose on while tring to slide hose clamp back on.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Disconnected power. Turned of the water supply. Removed/disconnected the water lines from the washer. Removed the top by removing three screws. Disconnected the wires/connectors from the valve assembly. Disconnected the water line from the valve assembly to the dispenser assembly. Removed the screw holding the valve assembly on. Installed the valve assembly and reversed the above procedure.

Replaced pump assembly

Took old one off and put the new one on. Was very easy. Hardest part was disconnecting hose clamps, which was still easy

Read the instructions provided by PartSelect.....and with a bit of patience I installed all four bolts so the washer's inside agitator was not damaged in shipping. I highly recommend that anyone who is moving/storing or shipping their washer that you find the correct shipping bolts according to your model and make and install them prior to moving your appliance.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

Too easy. It took longer to pull the washer away from the wall and disconnect it (hoses, etc.) than to R&R the water inlet valve.