MHW3500FW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!

Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer

Watched this video on the website and went to work. Went very easy and smooth with removing the door. A pair of pliers works fine for outer ring. Kind of challenging by yourself, but I got it on in less than 5 minutes. Pliers in one hand and flat head screwdriver in the other to work the ring on. Much cheaper than paying someone to do it. 2 out of 10 for difficulty.

Unplugged the unit and remove the back cover of the washer. Broken shock was the right rear one so easy access.
Used channel locks to twist the upper and lower portion of the shocks to unlock them from the washer.
Installing the new part, it is advisable to clean the washer base cover that the shock fits into. Corrosion can make it difficult to insert shock tab and twist if not cleaned. I had to use the channel locks to twist, but be careful as the locking tabs are plastic.
It is also advisable that when you have the back cover off, that you clean the washer filter.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

remove power to machine
disco the water lines

removed the back of the washer then removed the top.

remove leaking water valve by removing the hoses then removing the valve assembly.

replaced with new,checked for leaks

reassembled washer

I didn’t know at the time that they weren’t gonna send me glass, they sent me plastic as a replacement. However the notch didn’t line up in the door to make sure it was in the right position so because it was plastic I was able to cut the notch out with a multi tool and made it work. I’ve been doing laundry all week and there’s no problems

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

!!!! Unplug washer and let sit for about 15 minutes before performing any repairs!!!! Remove back cover with 1/4 inch nut driver. Locate drain filter under drum and slowly remove cap to drain(it will help to catch the water that drains out with either a shallow bucket or a wet/dry shop vac). Disconnect single electrical connector on pump. Locate and remove four mounting screws with 1/4 inch socket and ratchet. Remove pump and remove as much debris as possible. Install new pump with light amount of dish soap or other lubricant on o-ring seal. Tighten mounting screws. Connect electrical connector. Reinstall back cover.

I am still waiting for the correct part to arrive, I was sent a part but it was the wrong part, the wrong part number and it was nothing that would work on a washing machine. I think someone else ended up with my part and I got theirs.

1 Pull the machine away from the wall.
2 Unplug the machine.
3 Remove three screws in the back on the machine that secure the top
4 Remove the top
5 Remove the water lines that are connected to dispenser
6 Remove the Detergent tray
7 Remove one 1/4-inch screw that secures dispenser to the washer brace
8 Remove two torques tip screws from the front of the dispenser
9 Remove the outer ring securing the washer seal
10 Disconnect the rub hose connected at the front of the dispenser at the bottom
11 Reinstall the New Dispenser in reverse order
12 Test for leaks

This was a super easy repair that completely fixed my issue. My washer was showing the same F8E1 error code on most loads, and would not run special cycles, only the normal wash cycle.

With the help of Google, I diagnosed the issue as a water fill error and understood that the inlet valve wasn't working. I bought this part, watched an instructional YouTube video, and replaced the broken part in about 25 minutes, start to finish.

To do the repair, I disconnected power and shut off water to the machine, then removed the back panel of the washer. Next, I unhooked the wires and water tubes connected to the old inlet valve and pulled it out of the machine. I snapped the wires into the correct ports on the new valve, attached the water hoses, slid it into position, and secured it with the set pins, then reattached the back panel on the washer. I plugged the machine back on and opened the water line. Everything works now, including special cycles.

Replaced the whole valve.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.