MHW5100DC0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Disconnect water lines and drain lines, unplug unit.
Remove top panel of washer to access the door release, one open remove any clothes and use the shop vac to capture water from the drum. Close the door after sucking up water.
Move washer to access back panel and remove 1/4 screws.
Lay washer on its side and disconnect the power supply to the pump.
Remove the 4 bolts hold the pump to the unit. While removing the pump, use the shop vac to catch any remaining water in the washer.
After old pump is removed place new pump in unit and attach bolts to secure the pump to the washer. Connect the electrical plug to the pump.
Place the unit in the upright position and put the back panel back on the washer.
Place the top panel back on the washer.
Reconnect water lines and turn the water on.
Connect drain line and plug unit in. Once unit is back in position. Turn on unit and wash as normal.

I didn’t know at the time that they weren’t gonna send me glass, they sent me plastic as a replacement. However the notch didn’t line up in the door to make sure it was in the right position so because it was plastic I was able to cut the notch out with a multi tool and made it work. I’ve been doing laundry all week and there’s no problems

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix.
Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Replaced the whole valve.

Well, I am a 66 year old Grandma. I had to take off the entire back panel... no big deal ... then make sure to remember how the hose attaches to the bottom of the machine. Taking the clamp off with whimpy pliers was a little difficult due to the location. The most difficult part was laying on the floor and trying to use the stupid pliers that kept slipping off the clamp and try to shove the new hose on in the correct position. I just didn't have the grip power and manuverability to grab ... squeeze ... push the internal hose at the same time. I finally got it attached after 33 minutes. The rest of the hose attached litterally in a snap. Replaced the back panel and good to go!

Removed back panel. Remove 4 8mm sockets on pump assembly. Replace with new pump. Only difficult because of limited clearance. But I'm huge.

Unplug appliance. Remove the back panel with the 1/4” nut driver and cordless drill. The pump is located as you face the back of the machine on the bottom. Remove four screws that hold pump in. Reverse the process and install new pump. Check the filter and clean out the housing.
Reinstall back panel and plug back in. Run a test load (no clothes) and test drain.

1 Pull the machine away from the wall.
2 Unplug the machine.
3 Remove three screws in the back on the machine that secure the top
4 Remove the top
5 Remove the water lines that are connected to dispenser
6 Remove the Detergent tray
7 Remove one 1/4-inch screw that secures dispenser to the washer brace
8 Remove two torques tip screws from the front of the dispenser
9 Remove the outer ring securing the washer seal
10 Disconnect the rub hose connected at the front of the dispenser at the bottom
11 Reinstall the New Dispenser in reverse order
12 Test for leaks

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Really was not a repair

Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.