MVWB450WQ2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The part we needed wasn’t pictured — nor the quantity identified. There are 4 absorbers required for full replacement. I received one absorber — 3 1/2 inches X 1 1/2 inch wide X 1/8 inch thick. Including shipping, the cost was $53.00!! Outrageous! A 10 foot roll of the same thing can be bought online for less than $20.00.

By the way, it didn’t solve the problem.

Paul

I got the three rubber elbows to quickly (at an additional price). They were the correct part and fit exactly. I replaced the aggravating spring clamps with new radiator-type screw clamps which made the job easier and in my opinion better. Then I devised a little hardware cloth "fence" around the bottom to the washer to keep the rat out. The job is tough enough in that you must tip the washer forward to get at the lower elbows. Also probably a good idea to adjust the feet "in" as far as possible to minimize rodent access from the bottom.

1st watch a video on replacement of this pump.
My main issue was the guard I had to install and the correct way to
put it in. I know I got it right.
The pump is very noisy, loud!
It pumps out just fine.
Want to know if this is normal, Loud pump.
Let me know.
Thanks, Dave

followed repair manual for code f51.ordered/replaced Rotor Position Sensor {RPS} disconnected and reconnected wiring harness at computer module and then put everything back together and that took care of the problem, It;s been working good since. that sensor was delivered the very next day. that was great. thank you

Just pulled the old water pump off and replaced with new one and was good to go. Thank you so much for sharing the problems and how to fix. Dean

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

Removed broken hinge, replaced with new.

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.

Replaced bearings, seal and new shaft. Washer never sounded this good, well I can't even tell it's running now. Very quiet. Just watch all the you tube vids on replacing seal and bearings and you shouldn't have any problems !

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.

I removed the screws from old hinge that had broke. The piece came right out with ease. I slid the new hinge in to the hole that it went in. No struggles with ease. Lined up the screw holes and put the screws back in. Finished! Works like a charm.

First unplug electrical, disconnect all hoses. If there is a large volume of water left in the machine you need to get it out.Pull machine out so you will have room to work. Lay machine front face down. Remove drive belt, inspection cover.Take the hose clamps back up the hose,remove hoses from pump. Remove the three screws that hold the pump in place.Replace pump, take steps back as you removed the pump to restore machine to operation.Total time 45 min. I am old and slow.