MVWB300WQ2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .

First off always remember to empty all pockets, coins etc ruin pumps.shut off water supply, unhooked water lines and drain into pan.tilted machine forward so i could work on pump which is located lower left. drain pan under pump area, removed 2 rubber water hose's 3 5/16 screws with nut driver. Very carefully un clip rear of housing and removed wire harness. installed new pump

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.

We ordered the outer tub & bearing and now the washer works like it was brand new.

reemplace the lid lock assembly

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

It was not easy but I dit my sell

Followed instruction sheet. Removd tub assembly, Laid, washer on side, removed motor and necessary wiring, removed drive shaft, bearings and seal assembly, cleaned all areas, installed new parts. Reassembled.

Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.

Using instructions that came with parts and google and utube

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.

Replaced bearings, seal and new shaft. Washer never sounded this good, well I can't even tell it's running now. Very quiet. Just watch all the you tube vids on replacing seal and bearings and you shouldn't have any problems !

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.