MVWB750YW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed agitator and basket hub parts and cleaned all parts of agitator then replace basket hub with new basket hub kit according to video ran washer but did not solve problem

The inlet/diverter valve relacement steps:
1. Turn off electric and water supply and disconnect hoses
2. Remove hold down screws on back of control console
-Remove console to access valve and remove valve hold down screws
3. Label and disconnect valve connections
4. Insert putty knife 3 in. from each front edge to release hold down clips for top panel.
5. Disconnect hoses from valve assembly.
6. Remove old valve and install new.

Per your directions. Note that part has been updated from original. Looks like an improvement, adds tab to grab rod, but changes installation.

Repair was pretty straight forward with the exception of removing the agitator. Hint, do not force it, just continue to work it until it releases. Problem was not entirely corrected, but improved.

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy.
Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go.
All For less than $20.

This is an easy one. Snap off the agitator cap with a screwdriver.
Remove the single but and agitator.
Remove 6 phillips head screws.
Lubricate the bearing and coax it off the spindle.

Unplugged remove hoses remove drain hose turned over on its back remove suspension Springs installed new Springs good backup connected Springs did not solve problem

This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.

Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.

Repair is straight-forward. Thanks!

The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

I changed the part. Hooked everything back up. It worked excellent. Is quieter than before.

followed repair manual for code f51.ordered/replaced Rotor Position Sensor {RPS} disconnected and reconnected wiring harness at computer module and then put everything back together and that took care of the problem, It;s been working good since. that sensor was delivered the very next day. that was great. thank you

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.