A407 Maytag Washer - Instructions

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

I'm a 70 year old woman. I followed all instructions provided by "Steve" from Partselect video. The video was very well presented and allowed me to fix the leaking problem myself. Watch the video...you can do it.

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from lf and rf corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled lf and rf cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in may of 1966, along with its companion maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable maytag washer is 799. 00 At lowes. . . Thank you, fred maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, if it ever needs parts. . . And thanks, partselect. Com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the oem mount to aid in that desire. It is always good to see american companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

Water Inlet Valve: Unplugged machine from the AC receptacle!! Disconnected inlet hoses from valve, removed 5/16" screws securing valve to machine rear cover, removed wires from valve, disconnected the fill hose at the valve being careful not to let it fall into the machine, attached the same hose to the new valve along with the wires being careful to make sure they were attached to the right connectors and attached securely, placed the valve into the place where the old one had been and secured it with the aforementioned 5/16" screws, Done!!
Hose: Removed front machine cover by removing two screws at the bottom of the machine, removed to clamps, pulled hose from connections, replaced hose with NEW clamps!! Done!