7MMMS0200VW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

Shut off water and unplugged electricity. Removed hoses, have some thing to catch water in the hoses.
Remove the screws that hold the back cover on the controls panel, and the cover for the electrical cord, you do not have to do anything else with the cord. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the top of the washer to the back panel and slide the top forward an inch or two until it comes loose in the front. Hold onto lt glass top door a lift it up until you can see the silver metal spring clips that hold the controls panel/ cover in place, with a screw driver press the clips back and lift them up a little bit and this will allow you to move the controls panel forward a half inch and the tabs will release and you can tip the cover forward and this exposes the water valve, there are 5 electrical connections on this valve were I to do this again I might order the wiring loom for the valve at the same time that way you would not have to use the small sharp pick to work the connectors loose and reinstall them on the new valve. Replacing the valve was easy as there are only two screws holding it on. Pull up on the valve and it is off.
Make sure all three of the gaskets /prong seals are lined up before you press down on the valve to install it, install the two screws before you plug in the electrical, it makes it easier to tighten the screws. Plug the connectors back onto the valve, 4 on the top of valve on under it and reassemble the washer.

Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.

I decided to order the part and attempt to install it. Actually was easy. Took my time and maybe took 90 minutes. Works great.

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

I read the experiences of others on this site and determined that the problem was probably the lid switch. Used others experience in taking the panel off and removed the old switch and inserted the new one. The post to be sure to have the lid open was good and probably saved me some time. Overall, the fix was simple and the problem appears to have been solved. The lid switch got here the day after I ordered it and that was great service. Better than paying for a service call or new washer.

Simply put the new one on. No tools required.

Went on-line for help.found parts select website.referred to your service videos.discovered solution to problem.bought proper part.arrived in excellent condition.watched another video for how to install the part.completed repair in about one hour.washer operating back to normal again. this site is a one stop answer/parts shop. thank you .

Just watched the video. Take from a 63 year old. Who never fixed a washer. Thx a lot for the video it saved me a lot of money being on a fix income. and it was less than $ 10 that was included shipping.

After the wife held the phone to the washer so I could hear the horrendous noise it was making. And I screaming at her "shut it off, shut it off!' I came home and took the agitator apart, and found the directional dogs worn out. Went to the computer and easily ordered new parts, which came very quickly. I took off the agitator with a long extension and socket, put in the new dogs and reversed for installation. Told the wife get back to doing the laundry!

Washer was not agitating. My husband did not have a clue what to look for, but he took it apart and noticed two of the four directional cogs were stripped. Did an internet search and found the part on your website and thought we would give it a try since the part/shipping was under $20. The parts came in three days and my washer lives on. Was ready to get a new one since it is 18 years old, but I will not wait. Excellent website with all instructions and parts breakdown of the washer.

Removed top cap of agitator and pulled out the inner cap. Spread a pair of needle nose pliers and placed them in square holes on each side of nylon fitting. Unscrewed nylon fitting and removed top half of agitator. Replaced directional cogs/dog ears and put agitater back together. Works like new. Easy fix.

PS Received parts in 72 hours. $10.00 bucks and never left the house.

Removed Softner dispenser and cap. With a 3/8" socket wrench and extension And 7/16" socket I took out the screw holding the agitator and removed top section of agitator. Turned upside down and removed the rubber grommet that holds the cogs in place. Replaced cogs and reinstalled grommet. Aligned top part of agitator with 2 tabs and put back in place and secured with 7/16" screw. Replaced cap And dispenser. Good to go. Works perfectly. Very easy repair.