7MMHW7000YG0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Watched a video on the internet.

I removed the 3 screws toward the top of the back of the washer to remove the top. After that, I located the water pressure level switch, slid it out of the slot into which it is secured, removed the narrow black tubing from the bottom of it, and draped the newly-unattached end of the tube so that it would be easy to find. Then I removed the set of wires and discarded the old switch.

Next I attached the wires to the new switch, attached the black tubing and put the switch back into the slot. I tested the washer and it worked. Next, I put the top back on using the 3 screws. That was it!

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

At start of cycle would get SUD followed by F35. Did a lot of checking on internet and learned that problem is most likely pressure switch. Wasn't sure this was the case. Purchased switch, installed in less than 15 minutes and washer was fixed.

Switch is located in top part of washer in back right corner as you face front of washer. Switch has electrical connection and hose that runs to bottom.

Went on u tube saw different video to How disassemble the top to have access to the rod. Changing one by one those rod I was in need of my wife to hold the cover while I was changing the rod.... order for suspension rod kit. Reassemble the top by sliding the cover and to snap. Screw back the panel. And it solve the problem. My wife was really happy so me. It can be done by anybody but first go on the internet to get a idea.

I removed the back and top panels of the unit according to the schematics provided and identified the switch. I snapped the old switch out and snapped the new switch in.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

looked repair on you tube followed instructions. took off broken latch. compared to pictures on sites. ordered part. part arrived in 2 days. put part on. suggest using first method quick and easy.

Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem

watch utube instruction.easy repair

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you