7MMHW7000BG0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Watched this video on the website and went to work. Went very easy and smooth with removing the door. A pair of pliers works fine for outer ring. Kind of challenging by yourself, but I got it on in less than 5 minutes. Pliers in one hand and flat head screwdriver in the other to work the ring on. Much cheaper than paying someone to do it. 2 out of 10 for difficulty.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Unplugged the unit and remove the back cover of the washer. Broken shock was the right rear one so easy access.
Used channel locks to twist the upper and lower portion of the shocks to unlock them from the washer.
Installing the new part, it is advisable to clean the washer base cover that the shock fits into. Corrosion can make it difficult to insert shock tab and twist if not cleaned. I had to use the channel locks to twist, but be careful as the locking tabs are plastic.
It is also advisable that when you have the back cover off, that you clean the washer filter.

Unsnapped the broken assembly and then proceeded to snap the new assembly pieces in place. VERY EASY! Even for a 74 year old woman ??

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Followed internet instructions

I used a jack to lift the tub and unhooked the rods and replaced them. Works great.

followed video instruction that came with part. Previously watched youtube video (there are several, the low production videos are well worth viewing over the professional types). It was a breeze, other than the videos saying one person could do all four. When you get to the last rod, it is more difficult to lift the tub to insert the final rod in the round holder. I asked my wife for assistance.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

I simply followed Steve's instructions on video. Very easy repair. Washer works great, no jumping or vibrating.

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

Just follow the video! Very easy.