7MMVWC355DW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job

Watched video from partselect and it was on the money. Removed a few screws and tilted the lid. (after unplugging). Pulled it out from wall and tilted machine to have access to bottom. Had grandson reach from underneath and pull the rods out and inserted the new ones. Work great now. My wife is happy and I saved about $600 because I didn't have to buy a new one.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

I watched the PartsSelect video. I was hoping for the tub with the slots in the tub mounts, but mine didn't have them, so I had to lay it down on its back. The only thing I did that was not in the video was I placed a 2" thick closed cell foam knee pad I had on hand between the tub and the back of the housing. When I laid it down, the tub was elevated by 2". This made reaching the two rear rods a little easy. It seems that there would be a more robust way to achieve the dampening affect, but I guess this is cost effective.

It's strange that I searched for my issue several times and only saw recommendations to level the washer. It was level. Then one day I ran across the suspension rod resolution. It didn't do it on every load, but after a year of my wife nagging me and threatening to get a new washer, I finally fixed it. The biggest issue is just logistics in a condo hallway and a little leaking water. I also replaced my hoses. Should be in good shape until the next thing.....

Watched a video

First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy

Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.

Replaced the suspension rods not an easy task but very rewarding to hear it running quiet again when spinning.

Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.

Removed the old and replaced with new