7MMVWC320BW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.

I followed the online video, removed the old part and replaced it with the new part. My washer is working perfectly. It took about an hour to reset.

Unplug washer. Remove 4 screws from the small plates that hold top to body of washer. Remove cover plate from back of top. Lift top from base and support it on its back. Remove lid lock mechanism. Unplug connector from its socket at the back of the lid. In reverse order install the new lid latch,

First, I checked the belt before ordering and then decided to order the belt, capacitor, and clutch assembly (if I needed to replace). I replaced the belt noticing the older belt came right off and new one was tighter going on. I replaced the capacitor since I had it handy and it can be known to cause this smell also. After setting washer back up and started a cycle I noticed the spin cycle would not start properly so I thought maybe the capacitor (new one) was faulty or just not the exact match even though it was said to be. I replaced my older capacitor back on and again ran cycle and it ran great. Thus I decided to send the parts which were not used. I would recommend this site as I have used them in the past before on other items. They ship fast and have a great return policy if parts not used.

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

Removed old striker ( 2 Phillips head screws ) replaced with new striker with the 2 screws and was done, easy fix...

Removed belt cover from bottom of the transmission , remove old belt, clean the pulleys ,and re install new belt. The new belt fits tighter so it did a few time to get the belt fully seated. Re install belt cover.

I checked out the reviews and the recommendation of these "professionals", replaced the part easy enough when it came in. However, it didn't solve the problem. Got an actual professional to come in and see what the problem was, and they determined that gear oil was being leaked and it wasn't worth replacing.

Tried to get a refund and return the part. Was told absolutely not. The money back guarantee is a lie.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

I watched a video on you tube before making the repair, there was only one bad rod support, location right rear, I recommend watching a video on you tube first, it is very simple to change, however the replacement of the part was not the solution to the unbalanced load during the spin cycle, so I guess I have some research to do.

I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!