MAV8757AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I popped out the hinge pins, popped outthe busshings, popped out the cam. time less than 10 minutes, pressed in the limit cam, pressed in the bushings, pressed in the hinge pins. time about 5 minutes. the most important thing is my wife is extremely happy. I'm happy the parts fit perfectly.
also the parts arrived in 2 days.

This was a very easy fix.....roll belt off....roll new belt on....seemed to help not sure if it fixed problem....might try pulley and bearing kit next

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

As a 78 year old senior, I no longer have the upper strength and agility to remove the springs. Had to remove the washer casing (9 screws and 3 bolts), which gave me full access to r disconnect the springs, remove the tub, replace the snubber ring and reinstall the springs. The complete repair took me 6 hours, no assistance and was very thankful for the excellent videos available online.
Parts arrived in 3 days, fantastic delivery service, great prices and fixed my washer for $107.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!

Pop the cap off the agitator/auger no tools needed. Once removed select a socket and a socket exstension. remove the screw amd pull off the part. Make sure to save the washer that may be still attached to the inside of the agitator. install the new agitator using the existing screw and washer. Takes about 15 minutes.

After taking the motor off (it looked loose to me!) and stripping out the bolts on it, then finding that the bolts holding the motor were permanently affixed to the motor (and they were an odd size not available at the hardware store), I drilled the bolts out and put in new ones (on the motor) and re-affixed the same. I still had a problem. I then went online and found that most people had problems with the water pump. I looked at the pulley on the water pump and found that the inner shims had slipped out on a permanent part (and could not be put back in with the basic tools I had on hand). I ordered the pump online, and replaced the same. Took about 30 minutes after I found the real problem and got the parts in. My pump had a permanent metal disc on the bottom which did not come with the new pump, but the new pump fit without it. Machine works fine now.

I removed the old pump put the new one in its place. In twenty minutes i was ready to was clothes. It was so quite i thought something was wrong. I received the part in three days the timing was great.

Shut-off water + power.With the putty knive; slide it under the front of the top to push back on the spring clips.The top will lift easily and it is hinged.The Water inlet unit in the back has a plastic cover.Remove carefully.One screw holds the unit in place. Remove and the the unit will slide out to the left. It's now easy to disconnect the hoses from the unit. The wiring to the coils is color coded,take note for proper reconnecting. Remove stakon connectors from the valve coils. Careful, do not pull on the wire but wiggle it of the coil connection.Pay attention to the routing of the wire harness. Also the kit comes with a clear plastic splash shield. make sure the new goes in the right place.Now the old water inlet valve can be removed from the metal bracket.One srew.Assembly goes in reverse

Analyzed reason for hot water being turned on when only cold water was set. Determined solenoids were functioning correctly using volt/ohm meter and continued working backwards through the electrical circuit. Upon testing resistance level of 4 button switch was able to determine the switch was functioning intermittently. Validated by checking the power and determined voltage was being transferred to more than 1 connector, which was incorrect. Replaced switch with known good switch (validated new switch was good by checking resistivity) prior to installing. Installed switch and ran washer through cold cycle, hot cycle, and warm cycle to validate fix.

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

Removing and installing the pump is theoretically easy, as everyone on this site has said so far. Just remove three hex-shaped screws, loosen drive belt and remove pump, then install new one using the same steps in reverse order. The trick is getting the screws off and on--they do not have slots for a screwdriver and there is not room around them for a socket wrench or pliers. I probable spent over an hour just on removing/replacing these screws and have many bruises to show for it. I ended up attaching a vice grips on the tips of the screws underneath the washing machine and screwing them out that way. And replacing the drive belt was horrifically difficult--that's where the other hour went. The devil was definitely in the details! If anyone had told me what I would have to go through to make this repair, I would have called a repairman. And I am an extremely handy person--I do stuff like repairs all the time, so it is unusual for me to say this. The good news is that the new pump works and the washer is back in commission.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).