MAV6260AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Watched video from on YouTube. Disasembled dryer by removing cap from timer knob. Pulling timer knob off the shaft. Removed three # 15 torx screws from the top of the dryer. Top panel rolled forward. Depressed plastic tab removed timer and unplugged wiring harness. Ordered parts from this site online. Parts arrived in 2 to 3 days. Parts were installed following reverse order from above.

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

top cover lifts up and folds back to expose the water solenoid switch. Disconnect water inlet hoses and wires and replace switch.

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

The installation was extremely easy - videos sure helped. I would recommend this site for appliance parts - parts came ahead of schedule.

I removed the silver cap and then removed the knob itself. I replaced the knob with the new part and also the silver cap with the part. The job was complete.

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

I first had to take the old part out to find out what the part number was. Then I went online and ordered the part. Once the part came in I attached to part and replaced the drive belt. I did not think it could be so easy.

A few youtube videos to replace the motor and belt. From there on out it was pretty easy. Separate the top from the spring clips. Remove front panel. Remove motor once inside and remove belt from underneath. After motor was out, Remove base from old motor and attach to new. Reassemble and voila. Good as new.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.