LAT9800AGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

It would seem that my unhappy washer decided to
have a multiple component breakdown. after replacing one part after another, my baby runs like new. parts arrived quickly and installed easily, it was all the diagnostic that took the most time. the forums were quite helpful.

1. Remove the front panel of the washer by removing two screws at bottom of panel … 2. pull bottom of panel out, and remove. … 3. Remove two screws that secure the washer's top to the box (one on each side of the top; located in front. … 4. lift front edge of top and tilt it up and backward. … 5. you now have EASY access to the fill hose at the top of the tub. This is where the Rubber injector valve and Injector Sleeve are located (right on top). Replace these parts and re-assemble the washer by reversing process. I suggest that while you are in this deep, replace the factory compression-type hose clamps with stainless steel hose clamps. You can see this demonstrated on a YouTube video.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

Pulled the switch assembly cover off. Removed the screws that held the lid switch assembly on and replaced the assembly.
I just want to say that the online exploded view of the parts list was very helpful. I really needed pictures and your website had them. Also the service delivered my part very swiftly and ordering was easy. If I ever need appliance parts again I will order them from your website.

Read repair stories on website. Removed front & top to find leak, Ordered part. Replaced valve. Had trouble with clamp.It only caught in first slot, then broke. Had to go to hardware for one slightly larger.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

I found the electrical prints in the control panel. I found the door and check switch, and used my volt meter to determine which one was bad. It was the check switch, so I went online with PartSelect and ordered what I needed.

I had the model and serial numbers. So it was really easy to find the replacement part. It arrived in just days after I ordered. We are back in business. Thank you for your service, John Gamble, Marysville, Ohio

Once the front and top of the machine were opened,
I loosened the clamps on each end of the injector. I removed the rubber injector valve and the plastic injector nozzle was inside. I placed the new nozzle inside the rubber valve making sure the lip of the nozzle was locked in the rubber valve as on the one I had removed. I used a little detergent to lubricate the wider end of the rubber valve(as suggested by someone else in their description). I placed the valve into the washer in the same way the old one came out. I tightened the clamps and started the machine. No leak. I put the top and front on and have been happily washing since. This machine was given to us used by my mother-in-law. It is at least 25 years old.
I assumed we would have to replace the machine, but we repaired it for less than $20., including shipping. Thanks.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Checked the fuse it was blown. So I replaced it, pluged the washer back in. pull the start knob that's when the lids switch sparked and blew the fuse again.
Found you on line ordered the complete assemble to save me from the trouble of slowly change each.
Switch out the wiring from old to the new assemble. Line it up, one screw and a little adjusting and the Maytag is back in business!
Thxs Guy for the quick shipment had it in two day on a ground shipment!

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Removed front of control panel on the washer. Found the lid check switch, removed one screw, leaving the wires attached and replaced the old switch with a new one. Removed the wires from the old switch and place them on the new one. Reconnected the machine to the outlet,,closed the lid and listen to it run.

removed the front panel on washer.
unscrewed the top and bottom hose clamps on the hose.
removed the damaged hose. put on new hose clamps on the new hose.
made sure the larger diameter end of the hose was on the bottom.
pushed the new hose into place on the tub water outlet and on the top of the pump.
adjusted the hose clamps into place and tightened them both.
replaced the front panel on the washer with two screws on the bottom of the panel in the left and right corners.

Done a troubleshooting problem online. Figured out the problem and ordered the part. Removed old part installed new part and I am a female not that it should make a difference but some would say it does. Had the old part out and new part put in and it took me about 30 minutes. Washer now works like a new machine. Very pleased and proud of myself. The part was the lid switch assembly.