3UMTW5955TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.

Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation

I followed the provided video for changing the centerpost gasket.

I successfully completed the repair. I will say that I had challenges at almost every step. Getting the inner basket off the centerpost was difficult, as was rocking the outer tub upward from the base.

If a man is somewhat handy, this is a doable repair. Be patient and take your time. The video is very helpful and I don't think I could've done the repair without it. It's a pleasure to watch an expert like Steve.

It's gratifying to successfully repair a major appliance such as a washing machine and I look forward to many more years of reliable service from this well-built appliance.

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

Removed cabinet found tub spring had worn thru rear frame, spring was also almost worn thru. Checked suspension springs very very worn at mounting points.
Ordered needed parts. All in Stock. First bracket came the next day took 5 days to get the rest 1 part at a time.
Forgot to order suspension spring clips, order them next day shipping came the next day .
Just because parts are in stock doesn't mean you will receive in a timely fashion if you need parts better order next day freight.
Videos, parts diagrams and instruction are great, regular freight is not good

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

Ordered and replaced the sensor. Fairly simple. Washer runs good now. Thank you!

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

Removed control assembly found lid switch. Had to unscrew ground wire from warsher popped clip on old switch came right out. Had to play with lid in order to remove. Popped new switch in screwed ground wire. Reinstalled control panel,plugged in and the way it went. Trouble shot with parts direct made it easy and saved me 350 dollars(new washer)

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

1. Removed back panel.
2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor.
3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.
4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off.
4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub.
5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.
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Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.
All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.