MAV7580EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

It took a little bit of effort to find the service manual online so I could see how to take apart the console of the washer. I wanted to make sure of how to remove the front knob and timer dial because they can break easily if not done correctly.

I pried off the center cap of the knob, then pulled the center locking post out to release the knob and pointer dial. Then I removed the three phillips head screws on the top of the console housing and pulled the top of the control panel forward while pushing the bottom of the panel towards the rear.

The timer replacement itself was very simple. Remove the wiring harness connector and it is held in by one screw and a locking press tab. Be careful not to hit and break the retaining tabs on the 'AUTO TEMPERATURE' LED socket that mounts right next to the timer.

Reassmble in the reverse order and you are set to go.

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

Lift the lid and remove the auto-soap dispenser using a coin to turn the four locks. You will see a cloths hanger diameter wire that is held in place by nylon segments. The right end of the wire goes through the right hinge bushing. This is the torsion rod that hold the lid closed. There is a bushing that is on this rod and that is the part that fits into the hinge bushing. Remove this rod assembly by first removing the center nylon segment. Then pull out and the the left on the left hand side of the assy. Then fish it out of the right hinge bushing. Pay attention to how it is removed so you can replace it easily. I then replaced the broken hing bushing by pulling the broken one out with pliers. The new one snaps in. Now look at the bushing that is on the far right side of the rod that fits into the right hinge bushing. It will likely by seized up and corroded. Clean the corrosion off of the outside and use a lube to loosen the bushing so it will revolve freely around the rod. Now put it back together and your problem will be gone.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

I popped out the hinge pins, popped outthe busshings, popped out the cam. time less than 10 minutes, pressed in the limit cam, pressed in the bushings, pressed in the hinge pins. time about 5 minutes. the most important thing is my wife is extremely happy. I'm happy the parts fit perfectly.
also the parts arrived in 2 days.

This was a very easy fix.....roll belt off....roll new belt on....seemed to help not sure if it fixed problem....might try pulley and bearing kit next

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

I have a Maytag Atlantis ser.# MAV7600aww, I purchased in 2001. There are five screws to remove from the back of the control panel. The panel tilts forward. Push the front part of the bottom of the panel back and lift and the timer is easily accessible. Plastic hooks/hinges hold the panel in pal;ce. Fortunately I did not have to replace the timer.

I wanted to do a deep cleaning as some mold had begun to sour the inside of the drain tub. When I pulled the front panel off I discovered a loose plug on the motor. I Reconnected it and problem SOLVED!!!

Partselect.com was by far the best price and the return policy looked unbeatable. I am very happy with Partselect.com and would do business with them again!!! (Thank you, Lacey!!!!!!)