MAV5000AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

As a 78 year old senior, I no longer have the upper strength and agility to remove the springs. Had to remove the washer casing (9 screws and 3 bolts), which gave me full access to r disconnect the springs, remove the tub, replace the snubber ring and reinstall the springs. The complete repair took me 6 hours, no assistance and was very thankful for the excellent videos available online.
Parts arrived in 3 days, fantastic delivery service, great prices and fixed my washer for $107.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

Lift the lid and remove the auto-soap dispenser using a coin to turn the four locks. You will see a cloths hanger diameter wire that is held in place by nylon segments. The right end of the wire goes through the right hinge bushing. This is the torsion rod that hold the lid closed. There is a bushing that is on this rod and that is the part that fits into the hinge bushing. Remove this rod assembly by first removing the center nylon segment. Then pull out and the the left on the left hand side of the assy. Then fish it out of the right hinge bushing. Pay attention to how it is removed so you can replace it easily. I then replaced the broken hing bushing by pulling the broken one out with pliers. The new one snaps in. Now look at the bushing that is on the far right side of the rod that fits into the right hinge bushing. It will likely by seized up and corroded. Clean the corrosion off of the outside and use a lube to loosen the bushing so it will revolve freely around the rod. Now put it back together and your problem will be gone.

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Following the lid switch installation instruction, it was real easy.

This was a very easy fix.....roll belt off....roll new belt on....seemed to help not sure if it fixed problem....might try pulley and bearing kit next

Unplug machine, lift about 6 inches to remove drive belt. Able to reproduce squeal by rotating pump pulley by hand. Remove front panel by using screwdriver to release retainer springs on either top corner about 1.5 inches in from corner, no need to remove control panel for this. Lift top panel to access screws behind front cover and remove (be careful here as sheet metal has sharp edges), lean front panel forward and lift off. Release hose clamps and remove from pump (hose clamp on discharge is spring type, channel locks work well here), keep towel nearby as there will be some residual water in the hoses and pump. Remove 3 bolts from top of pump to remove. Lift pump straight up to remove. Installation is reverse of removal, belt can be installed without tools (at least on series 10) as the motor pivots easily, place belt on transmission pulley first, then on pump and motor last this way you can pivot motor and slowly rotate motor pulley to guide belt on. Very easy repair, just take your time and you should have no problems.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.

removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..