LAT9205GGE Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the cover on top raised control panel at back of machine. Checked fuse, then lid switch which were okay. Checked Check-lid switch which was bad. Ordered and replaced. I always take pics with cell phone before removing anything to see position, wire colors, etc. Only difficult because of location on check-lid switch. Hard to reach even with right angle screwdriver. Had to bend some of the metal housing above the switch to get screwdriver in there.

Replaced the lid switch assembly, works like a charm.
10 minute repair, 4 screws for the front panel, one for the switch assembly. Be careful not to break the plastic tabs that hold the right side of the assembly. As someone else noted, adjust the assembly front/back in the screw slot so the switch activates properly for open/close.
Fast shipping, great price, thanks Part Select!

Done a troubleshooting problem online. Figured out the problem and ordered the part. Removed old part installed new part and I am a female not that it should make a difference but some would say it does. Had the old part out and new part put in and it took me about 30 minutes. Washer now works like a new machine. Very pleased and proud of myself. The part was the lid switch assembly.

Checked the fuse it was blown. So I replaced it, pluged the washer back in. pull the start knob that's when the lids switch sparked and blew the fuse again.
Found you on line ordered the complete assemble to save me from the trouble of slowly change each.
Switch out the wiring from old to the new assemble. Line it up, one screw and a little adjusting and the Maytag is back in business!
Thxs Guy for the quick shipment had it in two day on a ground shipment!

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.

Based upon my research on line and my 'hunch' I ordered the Lid Safety Switch for this old Maytag Washer. Got the part in good time and it was very well packaged. After having some difficulty in removing the one nut that held the old switch in place I installed the new switch, plugged it in and was delighted to hear the washer working like the old days. Now I have many, many loads of clothes to catch up on.

1. Remove front panel with phillips screw driver.

2. Remove hose from drum and exit pump

3. replace hose with new one (used some silicone grease on hose)

4. Tightened clamps with nut driver

5. ran a couple loads of wash to check for leaks

6. found none

7. replaced front panel - Job done

new replacement water pump leaked where plastic housing upper and lower halves were bonded, presumably with glue. As a quick fix I wrapped pump with some 3M 4411N sealing tape. Seems to have stopped or really slowed leak. I was going to get another new pump but now worried it will leak as well so going to see how long tape fix works..

Followed above listed advice on replacing

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

I called a local repair service and they wanted 95 bucks for the first 30 minuets. Any thing over that was an additional 45 bucks per half hour, plus parts. Since the washer was 19 years old I thought it would cost around 300 big ones to get it repaird. We could buy a new similar model for about 550 bucks so I said, what the heck. I'll invest the 18 bucks to see if this 80 year old can fix it. The repair instruction I read on your on line were perfect. FIXED IN ABOUT 20 MINUETS.Installed the lid switch, saved a bundle and maybe another 19 years on the washer. Thanks a bunch. Walt Apple Valley Mn