LAT9205GGE Maytag Washer - Instructions

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

Determined that the lid switch was not completing the circuit. I then removed the 3 wires from their posts along with the 1 screw and removed the bad switch. Then, in reverse order installed the new switch. The part was 1/3rd the cost of the part sold locally. I ordered the part at 3:15pm Monday afternoon and it arrived at 1:00pm Tuesday- the next day. UNBELEIVABLE SERVICE....!

removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

After I replaced the timer, the washer still would not wash or spin. So my son replaced the lid check switch. It was hard to remove the screw, but he finally managed to remove it and easily replaced the switch. The washer works perfectly. We kept the timer installed (also easy to do by removing the old and replacing it with the new by just unplugging wires and I think one screw) because the old one had not worked properly for a few years when I had a similar problem which resolved, except it would only work in main cycle with soaking which was sufficient for me. This large capacity washer is in good shape and I hope will last at least another 5 - 10 years. ).

Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

I looked at the common problems in the owners manual and one item was the lid was not closed or the lid switch was bad. I took off the control panel and there was a schematic inside. This showed 2 lid switches. When trying to see if one switch was closed as it should be, touching the multimeter to the contacts was enough to get the washer going. .

checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Removed control faceplate (2 screws on top edge and flip forward). Removed wires one-by-one with needle-nose pliers and replaced on new switch to avoid mixing the connections. Removed screw and replaced switch then, replaced screw. Moderately tightened new part and operated lid. Listened for click open and closed. Adjusted switch position for proper "click". Tightened screw and replaced front panel. Done in about 10 minutes.

Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

Opened top - removed old switch assembly. Plugged in new switch and re-assembled. Had to reopen top when washer filled and did not start cycle. Switch assembly needed moved slightly in order to engage second switch.

I removed the old lid switch assembly from washer and one by one exchanged the wires to replace correctly on the new part. I placed the new lid switch assembly in the washer using the screw to tighten the part in place. I turned on the washer and after the water level stop the wash cycle began immediately. Friends were impressed I used your web site to determine the part selection by the previous reviews and that I replaced the part with ease. Thank you for an user friendly web site.

Granville County/North Carolina
6/13/2010

Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.