MAT10CSAAL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

I removed the lid switch assembly and replaced it with the new lid switch assembly. The assembly included the lid switch, lid. check switch, and fuse. It came as one complete part.

Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.

I removed the top cover that has the controls .Then started to voltage check the circuit (diagram was inside top cover) starting from L1 (had power cord pluged in) noted power was not going through the Check switch after tapping on the switch it started to work. the switch was intermitent so replaced with a new one from your company. works good now .Greg Gran

Had to look up how to pop the front panel off the washing machine - that was the hardest part. Once that was off, the top unbolted and the cover came off the back of the control panel with a few screws. Tilting the washer-top back, I was able to clip the new upper and lower injector (attached to each other in advance) to the washing machine. Then I realized that I needed to clamp the water line to the injector FIRST - so I found a small screw clamp and attached the water line. One screw and one plastic tab hold the injector in place. Everything went back together fine and worked great! Maytag washer keeps on truckin for another ten years!