MAH6700AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I read what others wrote and put two and two together and 15 mins. later I was up and running. lots to take apart but it all went smooth and no left over parts washer runs like new again

I simply followed manufacturers direction from the service manual that I had purchased. I removed the cover from the back of the washer, removed the old belt and put the new belt on. The old belt was certainly stretched and putting the new belt on simply required that I walk the new belt on to the pulley and then adjust the belt to the center of the pully. The end result was a washer that now spins as it did when new.

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.

this is a front load washer, removed a small access plate from the back of the washer, removed the old pump and install the new one

This took ten minutes .... super easy .... DO IT YOURSELF!!!! About 75.00 with shipping ... can only imagine this woulkd have been 250 to 300 to have somebody com e onsite.

Coins sheared the impeller blades from the pump. I disconnected the power, removed the back panel, with pliers slide the hose clamp off the hose and remove hose...you will drain water from both hoses when removed (if washer is full of water be prepared for it all to drain)remove 2nd hose clamp and hose, with a 1/2 socket remove the 3 mounting bolts, and disconnect the power line from the pump remove old pump from mounting plate. Install new pump in reverse order.

I went to Maytag.com and typed in my model number and it came up with different parts I found the glass part I needed and ordered it. I received it in like 3 days. I had a phyllips screw driver and it the removal of the base around the glass replace the glass and screwed it right back on and started washing clothes. No leaks at all. I am a woman and proved woman can do the same things a man can do but quicker.LOL

Removed top cover. Manually opened door through top cover opening. Removed 3 screws at front holding assembly. Removed 3 harnesses attached to assembly. Replaced with new assembly and screwed back in. Replaced harnesses. Certainly an easy DIY job.

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

Took the two screws out of the access panel on the back of the washer. Drain pump was just inside the access panel. Unplug electrical plug from pump. Take the clamps off the hoses and disconnect hoses. ( Lay towels inside around pump to catch excess water) Take a ratchet, extension, & socket and unscrew bolts from washer base. Unscrew pump from bracket. Put old bracket on the new pump and assemble everything back together opposite of instructions. Very easy fix. Thanks parts select. U saved my family time and a lot of money on repairs.

After determining and obtaining replacement part, I used a No.2 Phillips screwdreiver and removed the door and hinge by removing the two flatheat screws that secure the door and hinge to the washer. After removing the screws, the door hinge is still attached to the washer because the hinge assembly has hooks that hold it in place. To physically remove the door, lift up on the door by holding the bottom of the door and the bottom of the hinge and lifting.Lay the door on its face on a solid surface covered by a towel or similar soft cover. Remove all of the screws holding the inside ring to the outside ring. Before removing the inside ring, pay attention top the orientation of the hinge. Lift off the inside ring then the hinge. Be sure to keep the four white plastic caps on the hinge and set the ring and hinge aside. pay attention to the orientation of the glass inside cover and outer plactic cover as it will be easier to reassemble. If you forget, there are notches to realign the glass and plastic. replace the broken outer door ring, lay in the outer plastic cover, the glass cover and the hinge (w/plastic caps). Then reinstall the indise door ring and snug in the screws. Reinstall the door on the washer by inserting the hooks on the hinge into the slots on the washer. Finally reinstall the two flathead screws to secure the door. Your're done.

Of course, before starting any work always make sure your power cord is unplugged to begin with. Move the washing machine to an area with enough room to maneuver around as needed. Now, move around to the back of the washing machine and remove the two Phillip headed screws from the back panel. Push slightly up to pull the two bottom flanges out of their slots. Then pull out on the bottom of the panel which will remove it to allow you access to the inside of the washing machine guts. The drain pump is located directly inside and to the left being held down by three bolts with two hoses running from each side of it. Since there may be a bit of water stored inside the drain pump and hoses have a shop-vac ready to suck up any water that will otherwise go all over the place. If your washer has been down for a while that means sour disgusting mildewed water. Now, unplug the power cord on the top left of the pump and wedge it out of the way making sure it doesn't get wet. Use either a wrench or pliers to remove the three bolts that are holding down the base of the Drain Pump. Remove all of the screws that are holding the Drain Pump to the base. Flip it over to remove the last screw from the bottom. Twist the Drain Pump slightly to move the notches to be able to remove the Drain Pump from the base. Reverse this process to place the new Drain Pump on the base and into the washing machine. If you purchased a Drain Pump with a whole new base already on it then you just have to remove the three bolts and place the new drain and base in. This job is a very easy fix and would have cost you around $300 to $400 dollars having a repair man order the part and come out and do the work. I know because I asked a repair man how much he would charge me for this job. So save your money and fix the easy jobs yourself. Just don't tell my wife it was easy. HaHa!

Figured out the part needed to properly fix the problem and when the part came, I was glad I chose the correct one even though I pretty much knew that it was what I needed. I disassembled the door, took the old/broken part out and put the new one. It took about 20 minutes to do it.

Ordered new pump from Parts Select. Pump arrived within 2 days. Removed back cover off washer, 2 screws. Took 2 hoses off pump. Removed pump bracket and pump, 3 bolts. Took less than 2 minutes to remove old pump off bracket and replace new pump. Put everything back together and machine works great and water is out of clothes. Price of pump was the lowest I could find and I couldn't be happier with Parts Select quick response and price.

Disconnected power cord. Shut off water supply. Disconnected hot water supply hose. Removed top cover. Disconnected appliance connection to Hot Water Control Valve. Removed screws holding HWC valve. Removed existing HWC valve. Installed new HWC valve. Reconnected appliance connection. Reconnected water supply hose. Turned on water to check for leaks. Reconnected power supply. Started washer with hot cycle selected. Timed water fill time. Replaced top cover. Washed a load of whites in hot water. Installation and test complete.