A500 Maytag Washer - Instructions

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

removed front panel (2 screws at base)

Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)

Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)

Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels

Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.

watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.

Slipped on belts no tools needed.

Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.

We were not sure if the problem was the belts since they were not completely broken or overly worn down, but decided to try to put new ones on given the burning rubber smell and some light smoke coming from beneath the washer when it was on the spin cycle and the drum would not spin. We found some how to videos online and through the part select customer experiences, we ordered the belts and got them within 2 days. We put the new belts on, which is fairly easy and quick to do with the proper tools once you get the front panel of the washer off. The new belts seemed to have done the trick, as the washer began spinning again with no odd sounds or smells once the new belts were installed, and it has been running great so far. I highly recommend ordering from this site, as the parts are the real factory parts and are easy to find an order based on your appliance model. I found the pricing and convenience, as well as knowing the parts would be right and the best quality, to be the best part of this site, as ordering from other online retailers may land you with the wrong parts or kits with parts you don't necessarily need.

I propped up the machine. Turned the water off .took the pump belt off, then took the two hose clamps off. With a bucket and towels on hand for left over water in the hoses, i removed the two hoses. Then removed three screws that held the pump on. Installed the new pump in reverse order.

Tilt washer. Remove old belts. Put in new. Tighten transmission bet and pump belt per YouTube. It works like new now.

Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)

First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !

Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.

Great Company to deal with!

Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

Remove 2 screws from bottom of front panel, swing panel out and lift off. Remove 2 hex head screws from inside front corners. Lift top to expose injector in left rear corner. Remove clamp, remove injector from air break box then use screwdriver to pry the lip back through the hole in the tub. Carefully squeeze the lip of injector through the tub hole. Silicone grease or liquid detergent may help. Then reattach the injector to air break box and reassemble washer.

Removed 2 Philip screws from bottom front panel. The belts came as a set, so pay attention to the belt sizes when replacing them. Have had the new belts installed now for a week or longer with no issues. Looks like a good fix.