MFW9800TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

When I looked at the website for latch repair they showed a video (can't remember which brand but not Amana) where you had to take off the top and front of the washer to get at the latch part on the washer. For the Amana I had, you simply had to pull out a portion of the rubber gasket held onto the washer by a wire/spring combination (you can take the wire off) to get at the latch assembly. You could then undo the three screws holding the latch to the washer, pull it out and unplug the three wiring connections to remove the old latch. Then plug connections into the new latch, reinstall, tighten screws and fit gasket and wire/spring assembly back together. Much easier than going thru the top and front of the washer!

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Unplug machine,remove three screws that hold on top cover.
Unplug latch switch assembly,then open front door of washing machine, remove three screws which hold latch
switch. Install in reverse order.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

I ordered the part, followed the instructions listed on appliance help and put it in... easy

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

A real novice at dyi. Found what the error code meant in the manual and google searched it online. Found Youtube video on repair and was successful in getting the washer to work a few times before the error code returned. Decided to replace the inlet valve and on your site took the advice of a previous user and also changed the flowmeter. Could not have been a better experience. Easy to find the correct parts for my model and got great tips...plus your shipping was excellent. Thanks!

Removed the 3 bolts attaching top of washer. Disconnected hoses from the inlet value and flow meter, also very careful to remove the wire connections. Removed Water inlet valve (this requires the star screw driver). Did find it best to connect the inlet valve and flow meter before reattaching the inlet valve, as that sits under the lip, it is just a bit of a tight fit to get the hose reconnected between the two. Then reconnected the flow meter hose to the dispensing box, reattached the hoses and ran a cycle no f20 issues, as a note, an f20 has to do with a restriction in the flow of water not with pressure so not sure if it was the inlet valve or flow meter clogging up or both.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

I removed the old pump and replaced it with the new one. I am the happiest person on earth right now to have my washing machine working at its best again. Thank you so much.

Replaced water pump

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.