MAT12PDBAW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

removed control pannel, traced current flow to lid switch,in but not through, shorted power in to motor lead machine started, ordered switch, received switch, installed new switch, washed clothes.

Took the back plate off, popped the old lid switch out and the new one in. Very easy. No problems, saved $100 buck at least doing it myself.

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.

Took off the upper back that had 6 screws with a screw driver. Found the lid switch . Removed it after I figured out how to remove it. It was a little tricky without instructions. Putting in the new switch was a little tricky also. You have to angle the front of the switch in, pop it in and then push it back so it can snap in. Once I put it in, the washer started right up. I was very happy. Instructions would have been very helpful. I am very pleased with this company because I received my switch in a couple of days. I will definitely use this company again.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

There are two screws that hold the switch in place. And two wires connected to the switch. The most difficult part of replacement is to place the new switch and hold it in place to reinstall the mounting screws. The space to work in is limited unless you remove the front panel from the dryer, which I opted not to do.

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I was up and running. This site is really great.

I followed the direction came with the part.

• I unplugged power electric wire from the wall.
• Unscrewed total of five screws from the back of the top console.
• Removed the top console to gain access the switch.
• I took pictures of the switch position for a future reference.
• Unplugged the switch wire by just pulling the plug.
• Carefully removed the switch and pulled the plunger out plunger assembly.
• Entered a new plunger in first and inserted a new switched carefully.
• Opened and close the lid few times to check the switch is going on an off properly. You will hear clicking sounds.
• Plugged the switch wire to the new switch.
• Reinstalled the console and screwed back the five screws.
• Plugged back the electric plug in wall outlet.
• Tested the washer by washing a full load of clothes.

The whole process took me about 30 minutes.

-Abhay