LAT9304AGE Maytag Washer - Instructions

The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.

To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.

Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.

I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.

Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!

Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

First I took the seals out of the box they came in and let them hang on a hanger to get all the kinks out of them for a few days. Then I started at the corners of the refrigerator doors and peeled the old seals off on one door then replaced the seal by using my thumbs pushing at the corners first and once I had all four corners in I worked my way around the rest of the door, After both doors were done I used a hairdryer to expand the seals against the refrigerator case to make sure it seals tight.

Agitator motor burned out -- purchased new one through Parts Direct (parts still available) 4 bolts and plug and play wire harness and now runs like new.

Started with removing 4 screws on the top of the control panel. Once open, I found the schematic taped to the top. I traced the wires and found the 2 wires to test. I unplugged them and attached the jumper wire. Turn on machine and it worked. Ordered the part( it came in in about 3 days. First disconnect the power. The micro switch is mounted with 2 screws, remove these and as you disconnect the wires , attach them to the new switch, put it back in place and reattach the screws. Test .

First I bought a Maytag spanner wrench on eBay, you have to have it. It was $12.00 including shipping. Then when the parts showed up the next day followed the video and had it done in just under an hour from gathering my tools and cleaning up. The video was perfect and I had no troubles what so ever. The quote from the repair services was $280.00 and I did it for less than $90.00

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

It was really quite simple. I found out where the leak was coming from by taking off the front panel and running the washer through the drain cycle. PartSelect website was right on for what part I needed and delivered it promptly. The installation video from PartSelect couldn't have been more clear. I removed a few screws from the back of the washer and installed the new part in about 1 hour. All was good.

I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down.
Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.

I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.

Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.