PAV3300AGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Vey Easy to Fix. 1)Turn Water off at the wall. 2)Remove access panel on back of washer. 3) Remove Water pump. It is bolted down to the bottom of the washer by three nut head bolts. when loose the pump can be manipulated and tilted so the belt will have slack and most likely fall right off. Have a bucket ready. Remove water hose from top of pump by sgueaing clam with pliars and sliding clamp up hose. allow to drain in bucket. Lift drain hose out from wall and allow to drain through the pump into bucket. remove hose from pump that goet to drain. Replace pump and reverse steps listed above.

Removed old 'Agitator Auger and Post Assembly' held in place by one bolt and placed new 'Agitator Auger and Post Assembly'. SIMPLE and good price.

removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.

My washing machine was severely off balance during the spin cycle. It would bang violently against the side and “walk” across the laundry room. I was able to fix this for under $25 dollars of parts from partselect.com and a few hours. I rated the task as easy, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Others may find it a bit difficult but I believe anyone except an absolute beginner can do this job.

Fix this problem before significant damage is done to your base! Otherwise the job will take more time and be a LOT more expensive. My base had experienced a little damage but thankfully it did not require replacement. When the snubber wears out, it allows the tub to rub against the base. Metal on metal is never a good thing.

Also I chose to replace the springs, even though it may not have been 100% necessary. You have to take them off anyway and they are inexpensive. It is easy to know when a spring is broken, but not as easy to know when it has lost some of its spring. Just makes sense to me to replace them.

I used the directions below which I found on the internet. They are listed below unedited by me. I have added a few of my own comments below that.

• Remove power and all hoses
• Lift top by inserting putty knife just inside front clips to release
• Remove front and rear panels, 10mm
• Disconnect drain hose from bottom of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove 6 springs from bottom of drum using channel lock or spring tool
• Lay on side, remove drive belt by turning large drive pulley and side tension to belt
• Remove water level hose on side of drum, pliers - spring clip
• Remove drum from cabinet by sliding out top. It is not necessary to remove drum from transmission.
• Inspect base plate for damage
• Lay drum on padded surface, upside down
• Remove C clip, drive pulley, being careful to observe order of parts and washers
• Loosen 6 screws holding down old snubber. DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS, THERE IS A VERY STRONG SPRING UNDER THIS PLATE. Loosen screws only enough to get old snubber out.
• Clean dust from area.
• Insert new snubber, keeping it even while tightening screws.
• Reverse other processes above to assemble washer. Replace any broken drum springs. Replace belt if worn.

My tips:

• After you remove the tub you will see a lot of fine white dust in the bottom of the washer. That is from your old worn out snubber. Vaccum it out.

• I didn’t have a spring tool but I found that using a pair of vice grips to remove and replace the springs was easier than using channel locks.

• Technically, I believe the clip is actually called an e-clip. If you have the correct tool for this removing and replacing it will be a lot easier. I did not have the tool. I used an open end wrench that was just the right size to butt up against the two ends of the clip. A light tap with a hammer against the other end of the wrench and it popped right off. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to put it back on.

• Also regarding putting the e-clip back on, at first I could not see the groove that the clip was supposed to slid into. It was below the little plastic piece with the teeth. I used a small flat screw driver inserted into the groove to gently pry it up and had someone gently tap on the plastic piece which pushed it down enough to expose the grove.

• I highly recommend heeding the warning regarding the loosening of the 6 screws holding the snubber. I did not have any trouble with this but there is a 200 lbs spring underneath that you do not want to release. It could injure you and might be hard to put back. Just loosen each screw 1/4 turn at a time until the snubber can be removed.

That's about it. I took me about 4 hours

First push inner tub to left rear, all the way, and
unscrew hinge from inside of tub. repeat same on
right side. lift cover off and unscrew other half of
hinge off cover, both sides.reverse procedures and your done.
Note: always replace both hinge's new while
you have it apart.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

First I removed the bolt and removed the old agitator and post assembly then I put the new agitator and post assembly in place and tightened the bolt. It was so easy, when I called the manufacturer they wanted to send out a technician, but thanks to Parts Select I fixed the problem without spending alot of money and without the hassle.

One screw off and pulled the part off. Replaced with new and put screw back in. Fabric softener snapped in place.

Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.

Opened up washer, found vacuum hose was broken and replaced it. Removed agitator with a couple extensions and a socket wrench. Found agitator part was worn out and replaced it. The best part was how great PartSelect made it so incredibly simple and easy to find the right part. I'm now a customer for life. Kudos PartSelect.

After replacing the tub to pump hose, I adjusted the feet on the washer. Apparently, the main pulley sits so low on these washers that it ground into the floor and stripped out the thrust bearing. I ordered the new thrust bearing clip and put it in the evening I received it. The instructions it came with were very helpful and it was simple to reassemble. Up until the last piece - the retaining clip. The majority of the repair time was spent replacing that clip. If there is a tool that makes the job easier, I didn't have it. I finally got it on with two flathead screwdrivers prying the shaft out while I wedged one corner of the clip in the groove.

I removed the part that was still attached to the washer and installed the new flume. It took less than five minutes and a repair that would have cost over $85 cost less than $10 and I am no plumber!