MAH22PDBWW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

As video instructed

Took it old pump and replaced with new pump VERY EASY

Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.

Unplugged the washer from electric outlet. Removed front cover by using nut driver to remove the two screws. Drained the water from the washer into a pan by loosening the cap on the filter. Removed the two hoses by compressing clamps with pliers. Unplugged the electric wire from old pump. Used screw driver to pry rubber feet of old pump loose from washer floor panel. Set old pump aside. Installed new pump using a little dish soap to help attach rubber feet to washer. Attached the two hoses using pliers. Plugged electric wire into new unit. Ran washer to check for leaks. Replaced front cover using nut driver on the two screws.

Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.

very easy repair watched videos to diagnosed problem. Removed old sensor and rubber seal replaced with new.

Son-in law did the work he was finished in about 20 minutes the repair guy wanted $249.00 to take out and put in. PLUS part.

just changed out the pump. easy

Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.

There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

The most time consuming part was fitting the hose back on because of the confined space. Once on the rest was a snap. The drain pump installed just the same as the video, so watch the video! I think in total it took about 30 minutes to complete.

I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).

Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!

I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.

Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.

I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!

My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.

Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.

Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!

Replaced drain hose

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!