MAH22PRAWW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.

Remove old belt, rotate large washer belt wheel, guiding belt off large wheel.
Guide new belt onto Washer Large Wheel. Use a pair of pliers to hold belt onto wheel as one turns the large washer belt wheel, guiding belt onto wheel. Note belt will be tight. Seems like belt will not fix but keep going it will fit, you might even hear it pop on.
Old Part number (W10116215) new replacement Part number (W10388418).
New replacement washer belt fits tight, that is ok.

Replaced drain hose

Checked for 120 V AC at pump connector. It was present . Pump was hot. Ordered new pump. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Just tilt machine back and rest on a brick. Remove 3 5/16th screws . Disconnect 2 hoses and 1 plug. Took 10 minutes tops. Back in business.

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!

This repair is something even the most casual DIY'er could accomplish. What made this even easier for me was the fact that my washer was on a pedestal so accessing the 1/4" screws were extremely easy. There is no need to tilt or lift the washer. Just open the drawer and all three screws are visible. It also made draining the water out of the washer very convenient. The video perfectly describes how to accomplish the repair and allowed me to diagnose the problem by taking off the panel, opening the trap door and allowing the water to drain into a small trashcan until all the water is removed. I could physically see that the impeller was detached from the motor and found the culprit that caused the problem - a small vile of eye drops... From there, ordered the pump, two days later, replaced it with the new and I swear the new pump must be stronger than the original because towels come out near dry after a spin cycle. Very satisfying repair!

raised front of machine about 6 inchs bigest pain is getting water out after that its easy.open drain just a bit other wise it will pour out all over about 4 pots worth if its full

Never having repaired a dishwasher before, I disassembled everything I dared to until I found the root of the problem--part of the impeller had broken into several little bits. It wasn't apparent where the pieces came from, but the on-line diagrams and product photos helped. The broken impeller didn't want to come off the shaft, so I just crunched it up with a pair of vise grips. That seemed to be the gentlest solution for the pump bearings. The bits of impeller also took out the pump housing, which I could have ordered with the impeller had I been more observant. [insert four more days of washing by hand here] Inspect all parts for damage and clean out all stray chunks of food and plastic before reassembling!

When I tried to remove the hold down screw for the impellar, the impellar broke in half. I actually did npt need to go this far with disassembly as the problem was with water being retained in the rinse arm assembly and stagnating. This was due to calcium buildup clogging the drain holes. Clearing the holes resolved the problem.

Pretty straight forward , It is a tight work are especially laying on your stomach. To make installation easier I recommend buying a 3-4 inch hose clamp instead of trying to use the old pinch style clamp. You will only need a zip tie if you reuse the existing clamps. remember to remove the plastic ball from the old rubber hose into the new hose.

I followed the video that accompanied the parts order confirmation. The replacement of the two parts, bellows and hose, were pretty straightforward. The job took a little less than an hour with little aggregation.

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

Boyfriend followed directions and YouTube and I’m sooooo grateful!! My door shuts easily.. I love my machine and my man with your directives and your parts made my magic happen!!

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.

Removed top lid (only to be able to remove pressure sensor hose easily). Removed hose clamps and tied the ends together in order to keep in loose position. Then squeezed the damaged hose up between sidewall and tub to remove pressure sensor rubber pipe. Installed Hose with clamps tied in the loose position with thin wire. Attached the pressure sensor pipe. Loosened the thin wire holding clamps loose. Tested for leaks by running washer. Leak repaired.