MAT15MNAWW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

Looked on line and found the cheapest repair for my symptoms seemed to be the tub wear pads. Disconnected the washer, tilted it to where I could inspect the pads and discovered one was missing. So ordered a set, (Only complaint was the shipping was as much as the part). Parts arrived in 2 Days (!). Tilted the washing machine again...reached up with a small flathead screw driver and pryed the old pads off...snapped the new ones on (takes a little pressure, so eat your wheeties)...and job done. Stood everything back up and re-connected hoses, drain and plug...Works like brand new...Unfortunately for the wife who thought she was going to get a new one....LOL

logged on to partselect web site,selected washer brand and model #,clicked on parts diagram page and viewed the exploded view of washer. then determined the hoses to replace. with the aid of the diagrams repairs were greatly simplified. Parts were received within two days which greatly reduced the down time of the appliance. Thanks to the great service of Partselect.com washer is now up and running for only $40!

After removing the front, sides and top of the machine (all one piece) the springs were relativley easy to access. I discover one of the brakets that held one of the springs had rusted and would no longer support the spring. I then replaced the bracket and springs. I Re-assyembled the machine and it work as good as new.

Short solution: Machine acted unbalanced no matter how it was loaded and replacing all of the springs seems to have fixed the problem. Long solution: The washing machine was acting unbalanced no matter how I loaded the washer so I removed the cover to see if there was anything obvious (there wasn't). After looking around online I found someone with a similar issue who replaced the suspension springs with success. So I replaced the suspension springs AND the counter balance spring but before I swapped them I did a test to see if the old springs were worn. The test was hanging a 10lb weight from each spring and measuring the stretch of the springs to figure out the "new" vs "old" K values. The results showed that the old and new suspension springs had about the same K values but that the old counter balance spring had lost roughly 50% of its spring constant compared to the new counter balance spring. So replacing one of the springs did show a measurable gain in spring strength and the issue has been resolved thus far (12 loads of laundry without issue). I would still replace all of the springs if I was doing it again because it worked for cheap. Parts arrived 4 days after ordering them and they are genuine Whirlpool parts.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.