MAT15MNAWW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.