MAT14PDAXW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

Removed the control panel and the cabanit. Then removed the adjutatior . Removed the motor and gear box slid the old shaft out and put the new one in put back together. Took about one hour .

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

I replaced 3 suspension springs, 3 tub wear pads and 1 leveling spring (for less than $35 delivered). The springs are all very accessible once you remove the cabinet. The wear pads are also easy to get to - just tilt the tube up a little on each of the 3 corners and pull the old pads out. Before the repair, the washer shook, banged and walked so much that I thought it surely was time to get a new one. After the repair, the washer worked like new (even though it's 11 years old). I watched a short youtube video about removing the cabinet, which is very easy once you see what to do. I searched on something like "whirlpool washer repair youtube" and got multiple good videos. This repair was well worth the effort.

Luckily enough the washer shown in the demonstration is my exact model, which eliminated any variables I may have come across. The repair was relatively easy and probably could of been done in less time but I took every step slowly to avoid breaking something or leaving something unattached. For the money and time spent on this repair I would certainly recommend this for anyone with a similar issue. After taking the machine completely apart, i found that the suspension pads were still properly functioning. Since i had already purchased them with the tub wear pads, I changed them anyway. The trickiest part for me was pulling the outer tub out because the shaft on my unit was very rusted had a considerable amount of buildup on it. During this step I was very careful to remove all the build up because there is a single rubber seal between the center opening of the tub and the motor shaft. After I made sure the shaft was completely smooth and there were no protrusions I gently rocked the tub back and forth while applying pressure from the underside of the tub, all the while making sure that the seal didn't fold in on itself or stretch in any direction. Other than that, the repair went very quickly and easily . The spanner wrench is a must !!! I actually found it on amazon for about 6 dollars and I'm positive I will find another use for it somewhere down the road. I owe a big thank you to Steve. (the guy in the video) and everyone else from parts select for making laundry day in my house tolerable again !!!

Short solution: Machine acted unbalanced no matter how it was loaded and replacing all of the springs seems to have fixed the problem. Long solution: The washing machine was acting unbalanced no matter how I loaded the washer so I removed the cover to see if there was anything obvious (there wasn't). After looking around online I found someone with a similar issue who replaced the suspension springs with success. So I replaced the suspension springs AND the counter balance spring but before I swapped them I did a test to see if the old springs were worn. The test was hanging a 10lb weight from each spring and measuring the stretch of the springs to figure out the "new" vs "old" K values. The results showed that the old and new suspension springs had about the same K values but that the old counter balance spring had lost roughly 50% of its spring constant compared to the new counter balance spring. So replacing one of the springs did show a measurable gain in spring strength and the issue has been resolved thus far (12 loads of laundry without issue). I would still replace all of the springs if I was doing it again because it worked for cheap. Parts arrived 4 days after ordering them and they are genuine Whirlpool parts.

Watched the video on your site for that part

Since I had taken the washer apart before to find the problem, it was easier to remove the cabinet.Four screws and a electic connection. I remove the cabinet to get to the balance ring.I removed the tub ring by releaseing the catches and pried off the ring. Installation was just the reverse. Had some trouble putting the cabinet back whereit needs to be but once I got it the rest of the job was easy.

Replaced broken and worn wear pads per online instruction.also replace tub springs and counterweight spring.all very simple.

Unplugged the washer and removed the two screws from the control panel. Raised the control panel and disconnected the wire connector that connected to the top.Then removed the two spring clips that hold the cabinet to the back of the washer. removed the cabinet from the washer that exposed the frame of the washer. I then replaced the broken spring by pushing the tub of the washer as far as it would go and replaced the suspension spring. Then i reinstalled the cabinet and control panel. Everything worked okay. ood as new.