MAV6257AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I followed the direction came with the part.

• I unplugged power electric wire from the wall.
• Unscrewed total of five screws from the back of the top console.
• Removed the top console to gain access the switch.
• I took pictures of the switch position for a future reference.
• Unplugged the switch wire by just pulling the plug.
• Carefully removed the switch and pulled the plunger out plunger assembly.
• Entered a new plunger in first and inserted a new switched carefully.
• Opened and close the lid few times to check the switch is going on an off properly. You will hear clicking sounds.
• Plugged the switch wire to the new switch.
• Reinstalled the console and screwed back the five screws.
• Plugged back the electric plug in wall outlet.
• Tested the washer by washing a full load of clothes.

The whole process took me about 30 minutes.

-Abhay

Took the back plate off, popped the old lid switch out and the new one in. Very easy. No problems, saved $100 buck at least doing it myself.

As for how I did the repair , I just followed your instruction video . The instruction video provided by Part Select was very very valuable.
The snubber ring was a piece of cake BUT would have been really difficult without the helpful hints in the video like replacing three of the screws in the rings collar with three longer screws so as not to disturb the spring under it.
The suspension springs were a bit more trouble since my washer doesn't have an access panel on the back however THANKS TO YOUR TIP to stretch the spring and put coins between the coils made this much easier . I don't know many guys that are strong enough to lay down and reach through the front and put those springs on the back.
Of coarse the belt was easy.

I also really like you list of probable solutions to the problems with the machine.

My wife is now happy with her washer again therefore I am also happy.

Thanks so much.
I can see me being be a loyal customer for many years to come.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Looked under the symptoms .I had replaced the belt 2 weeks ago, so I ordered the drain pump. Pulled washer away from wall, removed water lines, unplugged electric. I removed the rear panel, found the old part right there, disconnected the in/out tubes, removed old pump, installed the new, re-attached hoses, reinstalled the belt over the 3 pulleys, re-installed access panel. Reconnected water and electric after placing washer back in position. Runs like a new machine!

Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.

The key is knowing what to open to get to the valve. The top of the washing machine lifts up once you push back the spring clips in the front. After that, it was easy to remove the old valve and replace it with the new one. The instruction sheet provided also helped.

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.