MAV4057AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces).

1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine.

2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.

3) Removed old pump with socket wrench

4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.

5) Reconnected the two hoses.

6) Installed new belt.

7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!

You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine!

Thanks for the help!!!

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..

Placed the washer on 2 brick under the front. Removed the belt, used a straight blade screw driver for the lifting of the top off. reoved 2 bolts off the face and removed the screws of the water pump. Water pump was messy with smelly water but a bowel and a towel helps. Placed the pump on, reversed the tear apart...placed the belt on the bottom. Removed the brick under the front. Hooked up the water supply...plugged in and did a load..it worked perfectly....Thanks!!!!

There are two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Releasing these clips allows you to lift the top; it is hinged at the back. Then remove two screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. The tub to pump hose is easily accessible. It is held in place by a hose clamp at each end. Use pliers to squeeze the clamps and remove the hose. Replace with new hose. I re-used the original clamps.

I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!

Remover agitator/Auger assembly. Install new agitator/auger assembly. Washer still would not agitate. Called repairman and found the transmission was bad. Fortunately transmission was still under warranty. 10 year warranty on transmission.

Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!