MAH3000AEW Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. ReMoved spring and cable from tub, 2. Remove bellow drain hose clamp at bottom of bellow, 3. Remove bellow from tub side and door frame, 4. Wet door frame with water and dish soap solution, 5. Press door frame side of bellow into slot. Align grooves, 6. slide tub side of bellow over tub edge, 7. Say a prayer to the good of your choice, 8. Reattach bellow cable with spring. This required use of double stands of 60lb braided fishing line to chinch most of the way and then use of a spring hook took in one hand and needle nose in the other. No less than 12 attempts. Be sure to have another pair of hands ready when doing and the whole job will take about 15 to 20 minutes.

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

Replaced wax motor. You must also replace R11 (3.9 Ohm carbon film resistor (1/4 watt), Q6 Triac (Mouser 526-NTE5656), replaced Jp 18 (jumper) with a fuse (Mouser 576-0251.500HAT1l. This job requires the use of a solder sucker in order to remove parts without lifting up cooper traces.I have had experience with many electronic projects,and could have done this one easier if I still had the proper tools.A solder sucker is cheap, and without it, you will damage the traces. I did, but used a continuity checker to verify I made solder contact with the traces. I have six of these stacked washer/dryers. All failed after about a year of use. I am in absolute disbelief regarding all the stories about how easy this repair is.

On-line instructions were found easily enough. And followed easily. Hard part was placing the cable and spring which secures bellow on drum. One instruction said "you cannot do this by yourself" (I couldn't see how help would have "helped") the other said "this was the hard part" of repair. I weight 115 lbs and it took me 1/2 hour to finally get the spring hooked through cable end it's a very STIFF spring! I only had a short pair of needle nose pliers - an 8-inch pair would have given me more leverage and shorten "hook-up" time.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

My Maytag Neptune quit spinning. I found an on-line diagnostic tree and traced the problem to the wax motor. Testing indicated that the motor had failed even though it was still getting power. The continuity between the wax motor and control board appeared to test good. Based on the apparent diagnostic results, I found PartSelect, read their reviews, and ordered and installed the new wax motor. Once installed, I discovered the new wax motor would not work. I did some more online research .It helped me to find that I had a burned R11 on the control board. It's great for those who want to try their repair skills before ordering a new control board at nearly $350. I I contacted Neptunehelp.com and explained I had just purchased a new wax motor from PartSelect. Neptunehelp sent me the rest of their Stage 1 Repair kit at a discount by eliminating the wax motor in the kit. The kit included solder, a solder wick, a wire to open the printed circuit board holes, and both a new R11 and Q6. The site had a thorough explanation as to why both electronic components should be replaced at the same time...any why both should be replaced if the wax motor has failed. They also had an excellent video on some tricks about installing the wax motor, and an excellent video review on soldering tips if you want to attempt a repair on your own. PartSelect was OK for as far as it went, and the wax motor I purchased now works as it's supposed to. But I hope they will link to the Neptunehelp.com site to assist those who are more adventurous and have more advanced do-it-yourself skills. If you know anything about a VOM and have ever done a little soldering, it may be a better option than buying a wax motor and control board when only the was motor, R11, and Q6 are needed. I've completed the whole repair, including soldering in the new electronic components, and have just completed one wash cycle...the unit now works like new. If you are unsure about your electrical skills, you might want to stick with PartSelect and buy a wax motor and control board. If you're more experienced, and don't mind spending about $50 before having to spend nearly $400, then check out the Neptunehelp.com site for some good one-stop shopping and some good instructional references. They have a couple of contingency plans if the Stage 1 kit fails to fix the problem.

The instructions from Richard of Austin, MN were instrumental in repairing my clothes washer. I am an electronics technician, and my control board failed just like Richard indicated. One thing Richard did not state is that resistor R11 and Q6 did not fail until the wax motor (solenoid) shorted out. If I had used the old wax motor, it would have caused the new parts I installed on the board to fail. I did find the wax motor cheaper on other companies web sites but without the instructions Richard provided, I would have had to spend nearly $300 on a new control board instead of repairing the original board. The two limit switches on the machine can be checked using an ohm-meter, so they only need to be replaced if they do not close when engaged which can be done manually. I found the resistor and Triac at Radio Shack online. I repaired the machine for about $40 total. Michael from Austin, TX

The video was great. The only problem was getting the spring back on. It was way too stiff, so I put it in a vise and stretched it a bit. It's a bit fussy but your site made it go pretty easy. thanks

I followed the video which I might say is somewhat misleading for the Maytag Neptune washing machine. This is the one with a recall due to mildew and mold build up on the Door Seal (Bellow). First to take it apart you really need a 8mm socket in order to get into tight spaces. Once you start using the socket everything will come apart quickly the last being removing the old Bellow. I found this is easy if you just roll the spring toward the front using a screw driver. Once it clears the front of the Bellow, the cable will fall off along with the spring. You can now remove the old Bellow. The next step is to insert the new Bellows on the rim of the tube. I started by attaching the drain hose at the bottom and then from the video, started at the top make sure you have it center correctly and worked down one side pushing the Bellows on the rim and then do the same thing to the other side part way. Alternating from one side to the other until you reach the bottom. The Bellow is now on the tube, NOW the hard part. First, the old spring was stretched. I bought a new spring at Home Depot. I next took the cable and placed it around the tube with the ends at the top. Make sure to thread the cable carefully so it is in place. Watch out for plugs and the drain at the bottom of the tube. I attempted to attach the spring by myself using a long nose plier and a Grip plier but just could not stretch is far enough by myself as shown in the video. I next took a 16 ga insulated wire you could also get at Home Depot and attached it to each end of the cable and twisted it together in the middle with pliers so it was tight and cut off the excess wire. I attached one end of the spring through the right eyelet on the cable and using the grip pliers and BOTH hands on the grip pliers pull the spring and threaded it through the left eyelet. Hold the spring in place I now pushed the stretched spring against the back lip of the tube. I removed the 16 ga wire buy cutting off the ends and carefully pulling it away. Next, I just followed the video. I pushed all the tabs on the Bellow in to the holes on the tub and then screwed the parts back in reverse order. Good Luck Al

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.

Well, if a picture is worth a thousand words, the repair video is priceless! Without it, this repair would have been more difficult, but it was so easy to follow along with the video while doing the repair. I rated it easy, but the reinstallation of the wire and spring holding the bellow in place requires significant pulling power. It took a couple tries to get it on, but other than that, the rest of it is cake. From start to finish, the job took less than an hour, but set aside some time for cleaning behind the washing machine if you haven't pulled it out in a while! Also, I have to mention that the part I received was an identical genuine Maytag part and not a remanufactured knock off. The fit and finish was perfect.

Watched the video, worked just like shown so as quick as you can take out 8 screws you can make the repair. Turned out it was the MCB but maybe this part (wax motor) Will save a main control board failure.

I went on your web site and printed the instructions given by the first entry after the product description. I had called my friend who is also a handy man and he did the repair very quickly [I helped very little]. The directions were very complete and very simple to follow. MAH5522BW

Watched the video. Video was great. Used a vicegrip to stretch spring since it was slipping out of normal pliers.

We read the instructions on the website which were very useful. We have a Maytag front loader. The instructions and pictures which came with the part are written to look like the hardware in the door and the door latch spring etc. is attached to the outer door. I realize this part fits multiple brands but instructions could clearly state that you have to remove all of the hardware from the inner door liner that you are replacing and reassemble it to the new inner door liner. It is really important to take pictures of how the door latch and spring are attached as this took the most time putting back on the new door liner. Our washer is older and did not have a vent tube and now has one. In the end, everything was correctly reassembled and we no longer have a leaky door. Shipping was very prompt and we're pleased with the part and repair.