MAH20PDA3W Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed tub replaced bearings. Put in new seal. Be aware drawing on instruction shows seal cup instaled from wrong side of seal. Other wise went well. Got bearings from McMaster Carr.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

I read the reviews from others fixing this same part, it didn't seem to difficult. It was not even hard at all. I installed the part and my washer does not leak at all. My Neptunes are old so I am very sure I will come back to buy parts here. I did install the hinges backwards at first, the didnt close so I had to take an extra five minutes to turn them around.

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

First I took off the door and the front of the washing machine. Then, took off the bracket of the soap dispensing bin from the top of the machine. Then lift up the top of the machine, and unscrew the bracket that holds the wax motots, label and pull wires, replace motors and wires and put back together. This is also a good time to clean and dust the interior of the machine. Before replacing, my motor smelled and looked burnt out, instead of paying $300 -$400 to have someone look at it, I investigated and I fixed it for around $30. I hope I get to inspire people to figure things out and save some cash!!

First and foremost, disconnect the power before anything else, then remove the door, access panel, and front of the washer,I then detached the front of the rubber boot so I could remove the plastic panel that it attaches to, that exposes the springs, I then used a vice grip to remove the springs replacing them one at a time, I also replaced the struts in the rear of the machine which requires removing the rear panel, and I used a bottle jack to support the rear of the washer tub while I changed the struts, I changed the struts first which only helped a little, the springs made the job complete and the washer now completely wrings the clothes to a damp state that dries quickly.

Removed 4 screws and door, lowered and removed front panel,removed screws holding locking tabs for the machine top, removed the four screws holding soap reservoir, lifted the top. Located under the lid and above the doorway I pulled out the wax motor retaineing clip with pliers and the wax motor, used pliers to remove the wire connectors, hooked them up to the new part and reassembled.

When I found the WAX motor would not cycle I applied 120VAC directly to the WAX motor and machine went into SPIN CYCLE as it should have. Stopped machine and ordered replacement Machine Control Board. Replaced the part and machine works perfectly.

Replaced parts then the door wouldn't unlock, so we called a repair man and he's replacing the control board and the wireing harness, it cost 394.85 but the machine is in good shape so it was cheaper than buying a new washer and dryer, because I want them to match & the dryers only 7 years old.

The service representative knew exactly what was needed from the description of the problem that was given to her. The hinges were received within a few days. The door was removed and the hinges were replaced and it does not sag anymore. Thank you for your great service.

Received motor control board and new motor in one day - awesome! Took off front panel, disconnected power and water supplies. Disconnected wiring connections between motor control board and motor. Removed old control board. Removed back access panel. Replaced old motor with new motor. Put rear access panel back on. Installed new motor control board. Reconnected wiring connections between motor and control board. Put front panel back on. Reconnected power and water supplies. Done! The hardest part was moving my stack washer/dryer around to get at the rear access panel. I ended up putting the entire unit "face down" to make it easy to get access to the motor. Instructions that came with the motor/board kit were easy to follow. Only down side - I believe my old motor still worked fine. I'm sorry I had to replace it to replace the motor control board. Machine works great now.

Replaced the belt and motor isolators. Watching your video made it very easy.

remove door with Phillips remove front panel nut driver remove soap tray lid and lift up top Phillips test small contactors for continuity and replace removed locking sprocket and replaced

Watched the video, worked just like shown so as quick as you can take out 8 screws you can make the repair. Turned out it was the MCB but maybe this part (wax motor) Will save a main control board failure.